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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 

Duchess 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Gonzalez & Rob Stahl, 2/74
Page Views: 2,296
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Duchess overview (c) Scott Nomi

Description 

Fun short climb next -- some juggy face climbing, some hand and finger sized cracks. Good TR for beginners, worth a quick lead for moderates. Located in the small alcove directly in front of the picnic table.

Protection 

Standard rack (medium sized cams and nuts), plus one bolt. Long slings helpful for anchor. Well-placed anchor will allow you to TR this climb, Duchess Left (5.4), and Duchess Right (5.7 OW)


Photos of Duchess Slideshow Add Photo
Making my way up the Duchess.
Making my way up the Duchess.
Daughter Marci, just about there.
Daughter Marci, just about there.
Duchess area. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Duchess area. Photo by Blitzo.
Duchess area, with Duchess route in center.
BETA PHOTO: Duchess area, with Duchess route in center.
Duchess 1.
Duchess 1.
Dec. 25, 2011  Erin F. completes her very first tr...
Dec. 25, 2011 Erin F. completes her very first tr...

Comments on Duchess Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kelly
May 7, 2003

A nice climb for the grade, a little of everything.
By Jeffrey Davis
Jul 18, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I thought this was a fun climb. Kinda short but worth the time IMO. I agree that the route had a good variety.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 19, 2004

Jeffrey, what in God's name are you doing climbing at the Feudal Wall in the middle of summer!!?? ;-)
By Jeffrey Davis
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It's not to bad once 6:00pm rolls around. Just gotta drink alot of water 8). Can't let the heat keep me down!!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 19, 2004

You're a braver man than me!
By Drederek
Dec 18, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Pretty decent Josh 5.6 up to the big ledges. In Randy's guide it is shown continuing thru the large flaring pod above and to the top. IMHO escaping that pod is a bit harder than 5.6, maybe even 5.9 for a couple moves.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 18, 2010

Fun lead at the grade, was surprised to find a relatively new bolt about 2/3 of the way up. Probably not necessary, but seems okay, as it is just a few inches from what looks like an old, chopped drive-in.
By Jonesey
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good choice for a first trad lead.
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 16, 2012

A couple of guidebooks show this route continuing through an alcove/overhang above the ledges. This is another route which is 5.10.
By David Cisneros
From: oceanside ca
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun lead. Short but steep and well protected. Good pockets and cracks.