||Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Larry DeAngelo, Anthony Anagnostou & Karsten Duncan -April 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||All except summer|
|Page Views: ||1,315|
|Submitted By: ||Karsten on Apr 21, 2006|
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Anthony Anagnostou dances up the technical first p...
Dubious Flirtations has a nice variation of climbing, some spice, and a touch of adventure. It is located the left side of the Solar Wall, in a small alcove just to the left of the Sunburn Buttress. In the alcove, there is a small varnished face split by a razor thin crack rising from the right side of a very clean, rectangular ceiling. The route starts in the corner leading up to this crack.
Move up to a short but wide left-facing corner on face holds and blocks. Continue up the wide corner (number 4 camalot) through the small roof and onto the fingercrack spitting the face. Climb the fingercrack until it seals up. Move out right on face holds to a chimney system and stance. 5.10b/c Belay takes 1"-3"
At this point, you can move right and up (careful for loose rock!) to a rappel from a pine tree next to the second belay on Sunburn Buttress, or continue upward on that route.
To approach, aim for a large roof feature on the left side of the Solar wall. Once you reach the wall traverse left until you see a short left-facing corner that leads to a nice fingercrack splitting a black face.
Standard rack to #4 camalot. Don't forget smaller cams.
Karsten makes use of one of the few resting spots ...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 from the ground. The climb goes up the co...
Over the roof, Karsten starts up the thin face cra...
The rectangular roof guards entry to the upper cra...
Thin crack moves just past the roof.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 13, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
This would be a 3 star route if you could keep climbing it to a belay straight up and it cleaned up a bit. As it stands, climb the face to the left of the corner, get in gear when you hit the crack, climb it through the roof and above. Once the crack peters out drift right - skip the chimney belay and keep going to the bushes until you find the tiny tree belay from which you can rappel. No need for a belay in the middle since it goes easily to the tree as a single pitch. You will need 2 ropes to get off though.