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First First Ascent: the crux
Okay this is a fun little jaunt if you are in the area, i.e. climbing 2nd East Face. The Triple flake crack at the top was the attraction unfortuneately it doesn't last long. The area is somewhat chossy and filled with death flakes, some of which we cleaned up.
The route starts around to the right off a spike up a few dirty ledges to some pro under the lump flake. A direct start would require negotiating many death flakes. From there step to the left onto face holds and move up to the offwidth flake. Continue up through the crux a steep triple flake crack and out to a slung mahogany to the left.
Rap into the gully to the East as to not disturb the "tugboat" flake.
Approach as if you were climbing 2nd East Face. The wall is essentially the 3rd east face.
Standard Trad Rack up to a 3" will do.
BETA PHOTO: 1. Dualing Banjos 2. West Side Water Slide