Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdie Party 
Credibility Gap 
Dangler, The 
Dry Martini 
Fall to Grace 
Fly Again 
Graveyard Shift 
Higher Stannard 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The 
Land's End (Direct) 
Laughing Man 
Men At Arms 
Mother's Day Party 
Overhanging Layback 
Scene of the Climb 
Something Boring 
Something Interesting 
Star Action 
Still Crazy After All These Years 
Tequila Mockingbird 
Three Pines 
Tough Shift 
Try Again 
Welcome to the Gunks 

Dry Martini 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pitch 1, Rich Perch and Ivan Rezucha, 195. Pitches 2 and 3, Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, and Lucien Warner, 1955
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 17, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Dry Martini and Tequila Mockingbird have the same ...
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


1. Start by climbing the right side of the left-facing corner, up to an overhang. Swing around right, then traverse right ~40' until you're below a stance in a right-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge/stance and build a belay. 70 feet, 5.6.

2. Climb the corner about 8-10 feet to an obvious horizontal, then traverse out left to a bolt. Pass the bolt (crux) and then go up and right for about 25 feet to some ledges. There are several you can use; one has two old pins and a fixed piece. 70 feet, 5.7.

3. Climb straight up to a corner system then on to the top. 60 feet, 5.4.

From the clifftop, walk right to various rappel stations.


At the rightmost end of the McCarthy Wall there is a large, right-facing corner system. Walk past that for about 200 feet and look for the left-facing corner that starts the route. Another 20' feet right you'll see a left-leaning crack, which is the start of Tequila Mockingbird.


Standard 'Gunks rack

Comments on Dry Martini Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 10, 2009

A nice climb. Each pitch is very different from the next. The first pitch has a thoughtful, well protected roof. The second pitch has a couple of thin face moves protected by a shiny new bolt. The third pitch is a fun jug haul up a v shaped chimney thing. I did get lost on P2, ended up building an anchor just below the chimney.

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A nice climb. I didn't like the first pitch; there is a huge loose block under the roof and the protection isn't as good as you think. As for P2, as soon as you climb the bulge (crux with bolt), start moving right and you should see the fixed pieces (2 old pins + couple of other pieces). P3 is fun climbing.

By SketchySam
Oct 5, 2011

We did this for the first time last weekend and it was great. Most climbs were either wet from the rainstorm the previous night, or had people on them, so we decided to give this one a shot. The second belay station, consisting of two pins and a tricam, would have required traversing way out right so I just climbed straight up a bit more and set a belay a little higher. If you do a good job at placing runners, you could probably just climb straight to the GT ledge from the first belay and skip the second belay all together. You'd want a long runner on the bolt if you were going to do that. The third pitch was pretty wet, but fun nonetheless.