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 ADVANCED
Second Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chem Trail T 
Drunken Pilot T 
Ejector Seat T 
Little Black Box T 
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 
Stand By T 
Stress Fracture T 
Touch and Go T 

Drunken Pilot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Bubb, C. Parks, 8/27/13
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces NW, AM shade
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013

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Description 

This is a mellow and reasonable climb on-par with the quality of the neighboring routes on this ledge... once the dead bushes were cleaned out of it.

Step up one move and place a good medium/large stopper in a small crack on the left of the main crack. Stand up and start jamming above (2-3.5" cams), heading up the good handcrack to the big blocks that bulge at the top. Up top, step up and left and over the top. A good directional or anchor can be hand in a vertical crack behind the ledge which takes 2-2.5" cams.

Location 

This route is on the right-most and shortest of 3 buttresses of the second tier.

Approach from the ledge below the second buttress and go up and right (5.6 scramble) to a second, slightly higher ledge. Little Black Box, Stand By, and Drunken Pilot (L->R) all start from this ledge. Drunken Pilot is the handcrack to the right of the split cracks of LBB and SB, with the remains of a small shrub 2 meters up. (This has been largely cleaned.)

Protection 

A medium/large nut, followed by hand-sized cams. You can rap as for Little Black Box, or even belay there after a directional.


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