This climb, with the politically incorrect name, starts directly below the short vertical crack. Begin on tiny and improbable edges, carefully working up the seam past one bolt to the horizontal. Get into the hand crack and follow up and right as it widens into a ledge. Finish at the anchor for Blue Collar. This is a dangerous lead as a fall from the crux could land your back or head on the end of a block that is only a couple feet away from the wall, directly in line with the route. Starting this climb from that block yields a safe and fun climb that goes at about 5.8. Two stars for the moderate climbing above the R crux. Descend via easy walk-off to the northeast, away from the climbs, or down-climb Knobulator.
1 bolt, gear to 2.5", bolted anchor
Oct 9, 2009
FA Aaron Rough
|By Michael Clark|
From: Irvine, CA
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pretty tough start. Once you get a hand on the first big knob, then the 5.10 rating is pretty much over.