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Window Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crunk Cowgirl T 
Destroy all Planets T,S 
Drunken Cowboy T 
Expect No Mercy T 
Failure to Launch T 
Good Times T 
Indian Summer T 
Juniper Jam T 
Masochist Crack T 
One Step Beyond TR 
Pure Pleasure T 

Drunken Cowboy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,343
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: The climber is beginning "Pure Pleasure,"...

Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>


In the center of the east face on Window Rock are a series of perfect hand cracks that don't quite make it to the ground. Look for a bolt below the start of two of these cracks. The left crack is Good Times, and the right crack is Pure Pleasure. Both are 5.7, and both are enjoyable. You should do these as well. Drunken Climber is the crack to the right of these.

There is a tree at the base of the route. Start at this tree and head up into the crack above you to its end. Belay on a big ledge with horizontal placements for an anchor.

Descend with a one-rope rappel off a two-bolt anchor located 5 feet to climber's right of the route, landing at the tree where you started.

Note: I don't know what this route is historically called, but ``Drunken Climber'' is what we have always called it. If you know more about this route, please speak up!


Standard Rack

Photos of Drunken Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drunken Climber, or Drunken Cowboy, is the thin, l...
BETA PHOTO: Drunken Climber, or Drunken Cowboy, is the thin, l...

Comments on Drunken Cowboy Add Comment
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By Alex Curtis
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 18, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I really enjoyed this climb. Crux at the beggining and then easier the closer you got to the top. Crack climbing mixed with a little face climbing. Great little route.
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 25, 2011

I've also heard this route called "Drunken Cowboy."
By dave bingham
Nov 8, 2011

Is this a crack that's un-named in the Bingham guide, just r. of PP? Thanks for the info!
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 22, 2012

This route is not mentioned in the 7th edition of the Bingham guidebook. It is the next crack directly right from Pure Pleasure. The start may be reached by a short scramble, and avoids the slightly runout start of the 2 preceding routes. The pro possibilities are excellent all the way!
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is much better than Good Times in my opinion. Definitely worth the effort. A bit of smearing/slab moves at top if I remember correctly.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 16, 2015

Theres also another crack, about 5 ft to the right of this one. Also unnamed, and worth doing if you are in the area. Probably goes at ~5.6. You can see it in both the beta pics.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First climbed this years ago with Wake Williams. We called it Anchor Direct, since that is where the crack leads. Unprotected move to crack is easier than getting to the first bolt on the two 5.6 climbs to the left. No need to build an anchor, just belay off the chain anchor/rap station at top of the crack. Last two moves are a little thin.

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