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Alex getting into the P2 roof.What a nice 5.6 roof...
The beginning is tricky and scary if this is your limit. The reward is one of the best 5.6 roofs in the Gunks!
Walk a few minutes down the carriage road to the access trail. It is in the same area as Frog's Head, Maria and Sixish. Start at a thin crack that angles up and right and then becomes vertical, about 20' right of Sixish.
P1: Climb the face left of the crack, traverse right (crux), and continue up the face to a big roof. Belay here. 5.8-, 100'.
P2: Angle out right over the roof (5.6), and then angle up left to a tree on the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'.
From here, you can rappel to the ground with two 60m ropes. With one rope, traverse left on the GT ledge to the Frog's Head bolt line.
P1 and P2 can easily be linked, but be aware that the second will almost certainly face groundfall from the crux due to rope stretch.
P3: Follow the right-facing corner above to the cliff top (5.4). Descend via the Uberfall Descent.
Takes pretty good gear, but beware that the crux is before you put protection in. A good spotter is considered gear here.
Pretty damn horizontal climbing for 5.6. May 2010....
Looking down the 1st pitch. A little run out, but...
Nice horizontal nut placement at the crux. Unfortu...
|Comments on Drunkard's Delight
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Mar 28, 2007
Making one more move up on small crimps can get your feet above the polished crux and make the two move traverse right a bit easier. Doesn't make crux gear any better, just avoids the polished feet spot.
Nov 5, 2007
P1 and P2 can be easily linked.
Feb 19, 2008
Morning After, next climb right, is much better. Three excellent pitches. One of Gunks' best 5.7s.
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13
Very fun route! Linked the first two pitches and was well worth it!
Jul 31, 2009
I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux, and I've even seen a small nut used to protect the first move rightwards.
That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle; and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!
Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader - I've seen this cause injury, too.
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: NY, NY
Aug 23, 2009
If you come in to the crux from the good holds on the left you can protect it with a small cam. Still not a comfortable fall. Going straight up in to the crux is a little harder. Roof on P2 is ... steep! Great climb!
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.8- PG13
Spectacular route after the initial jitters. Strange, balancy moves on less than vertical with no gear in then leads to stellar, steep climbing with great holds. A great route, but definitely PG13 considering the beginning.
|By James Schmidt|
May 26, 2011
The route need not be PG-13. While a bit reachy to place, a purple metolius 0 can be slotted in the obvious horizontal before committing to the traverse crux and is as solid as it gets. If you find you're not able to reach far enough out to the place the cam, then you haven't stepped right far enough.
Note: Failure to place additional pro before ascending from the traverse risks a ground fall just the same as if the small cam had never been placed in the first place. As fortune would have it, a nut slots perfectly in a finger lock.
The trouble from that position is that the stance is less than ideal, particularly for the leader just breaking into the grade who may find it strenuous to hang out and place gear. But don't be tempted to move on until you've got some good pro. Know that you're still safe at this point, so don't pass it up! You will be relieved with a restful perch as you step up.
|By steve richert|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 2, 2011
One way to help protect the second from rope stretch-induced groundfall is to have the second pull all of the stretch out of the cord and the belayer can take up the slack created. By climbing before the rope regains its elasticity (I believe 30 sec to a minute)any falls will be subject to far less rope stretch. This is the same reason it is advised that when projecting a route and taking repeated falls, it is best to give the rope a bit to recover between burns. I climbed this today and that first bit on lead is spicy! A #1 C3 or possibly a small nut protect that step across then after that, the gear seemed pretty plentiful where needed. This route eats stoppers.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 9, 2012
Excellent route with a very delicate and balancy crux on P1. I wasn't sure what was ahead for gear so I placed a blue or purple master cam and then moved up to a welcome stance and stopper placements. I wouldn't say PG13 on this...just go climbing and get it done.