|Early Wall - Right End
A fun, good sport route on the right end of the Early Wall. Called the easiest sport route at Diablo, it's a good way to warm up and/or get used to the rock. Lots of good ledges for hands and feet to a relatively thin crux near the top.
This is on the right end of the Early Wall near the entrance to the Grotto. It's shown as route #15 on the online Diablo Canyon guide.
7 bolts to two-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: John leading Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
Bill Geist leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs...
BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo.
|By Aaron Miller|
Dec 7, 2006
Use this route to access Airbus by traversing left and up 20 feet from the anchors.
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 29, 2007
Great route for the grade. Lots of pulls going the "wrong" way make for great opositional movement. Sort of a signature for Diablo.
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 2, 2008
The Diablo Standard crack (first pitch crack awful) above this route had been climbed by Greg Swift and Tim Johnson In the early 1980s although I do not know if it was a FA.
|By Ken Kisiel|
Jul 8, 2008
The crack we dubed "Diablo Standard" in the mid 90's is well east of this route and consists of two pitches (see online guide). Although there could be another Diablo Standard named by different parties that could also be considered "crack awful" through the lower band of rock.
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 15, 2012
Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?