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Early Wall - Right End
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Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell
Season: Year round
Page Views: 1,398
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 1, 2006

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Roger Rumsey leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clu...

Description 

A fun, good sport route on the right end of the Early Wall. Called the easiest sport route at Diablo, it's a good way to warm up and/or get used to the rock. Lots of good ledges for hands and feet to a relatively thin crux near the top.


Location 

This is on the right end of the Early Wall near the entrance to the Grotto. It's shown as route #15 on the online Diablo Canyon guide.


Protection 

7 bolts to two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs Slideshow Add Photo
John leading Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
BETA PHOTO: John leading Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
Bill Geist leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs" at the Early Wall at Diablo Canyon.
Bill Geist leading "Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs...
Classic rope & rock photo.
BETA PHOTO: Classic rope & rock photo.
Comments on Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs Add Comment
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By Aaron Miller
Oct 31, 2006

See route # 15 on photo

By Aaron Miller
Dec 7, 2006

Use this route to access Airbus by traversing left and up 20 feet from the anchors.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 29, 2007

Great route for the grade. Lots of pulls going the "wrong" way make for great opositional movement. Sort of a signature for Diablo.

By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008

The Diablo Standard crack (first pitch crack awful) above this route had been climbed by Greg Swift and Tim Johnson In the early 1980s although I do not know if it was a FA.

By Ken Kisiel
Jul 8, 2008

The crack we dubed "Diablo Standard" in the mid 90's is well east of this route and consists of two pitches (see online guide). Although there could be another Diablo Standard named by different parties that could also be considered "crack awful" through the lower band of rock.

By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 15, 2012

Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?