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 ADVANCED
Der Freischutz
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bidoigt T 
Drugs S 
Dwarves Are People Too T,TR 
East Face / Der Freischutz T 
Frankenstein TR 
Free Shot T 
Horn, The S 
HuGGz TR 
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 
North East Gully T 
Reality TR 
Rock and Roll S 
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 
South Ridge T 
Street Hassle S 
Unsorted Routes:

Drugs 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 1,642
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Christian edging his way up on Drugs.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short but sweet face climb ascends the middle of the textured face on the southwest face of Der Freischutz, following a line of four bolts. The route has a gorgeous backdrop of Bear Canyon, and so one might want to bring a camera for this one! Start at a large hueco below the first bolt. Climb straight up past four bolts on the beatiful face into a right facing corner and over the top to anchors. The crux of the right is located right at the fourth bolt, and consists of balancy moves of hidden sidepulls and edges to gain a small ledge below the final corner. The climbing up to this point is no harder than 5.10, and winds its way upward between a series of solid crimp-sized flakes and edges with plenty of feet. To descend rappel from the anchors (50 feet). This would most definitely receive three stars if it was not so short.


Protection 

Bring four quickdraws and gear for the anchors if one is toproping.



Photos of Drugs Slideshow Add Photo
Moe Hershoff climbing "Drugs".
Moe Hershoff climbing "Drugs".
Susan Schima climbing "Drugs".
Susan Schima climbing "Drugs".
Moe.
Moe.
Drugs.
BETA PHOTO: Drugs.
Comments on Drugs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 8, 2002

This is one of those weird routes that, although it is vertical, you feel like you pull with your toes.

By Stan Lanzano
Apr 27, 2003

Two star climb, three star setting.

By XOG
Feb 14, 2005

As of Feb. 13th Drugs has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.

By ac
Feb 15, 2005

Greg:

Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???

Thanks,

Rob Palmer

By XOG
Feb 15, 2005

Rob:

I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.

www.aceeldo.org/~aceeldoo/fhrc/

www.safeclimbing.org/

- Greg

By Nate Adams
Feb 25, 2005

Gear Alert

AC:

The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.

I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.

I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.

Greg brings up a good point regarding bringing a wrench. If you do, I suggest a ratchet with a 17 mm socket. However, I would strongly advise that you do not tighten the bolts unless the hangar appears to be loose. This is critical, as overtightening could result in a time bomb. The new bolts are Stainless Steel (SS), which is less forgiving than mild steel, in regards to proper "torque". In placing any bolt, I prefer not to err on the side of over "torque-ing".

I would venture to say that, being SS the new gear will last decades longer than the original gear.

Note that Street Hassle, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey have received new gear. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2007

Thin, sharp, tough when too hot (slick) or too cold (can't feel).

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Good finger warm-up for Power Bulge.

By Davy O
Sep 11, 2009

Someone needs to bring a wrench up to tighten the nut on the first bolt. It was very loose today (about to fall off). I tightened it by hand, but I'm sure it will work its way loose again soon.

By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2014

The nut of the lowest bolt in the anchor is quite loose, which causes the hanger to spin. Hand tightened it as much as I could today, but it didn't do much....