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Routes in Addiction
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A Beautiful Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Addiction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Black Celebration S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Corner Drug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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DeWalt's Challenge S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dogs of War S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Drug Enemy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gathering, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Go West, Young Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Want a New Drug S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mezmeree (sp?) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pretty Hate Machine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Enemy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Road to Dushanbe, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soul Finger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Soup Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Surplus Fusion Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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White Dwarf S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Greg Collins |
| Page Views: | 2,130 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on May 27, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
This combo line is quite fun. Climb the lower crux of Corner Drug through four bolts. Shake out. Clip the bolt far out left with a permadraw, and make the easy but airy hand traverse left into Public Enemy (12b/c). Climb up into the left of two bolt lines for the classic moves on the upper cruxes of Public Enemy. You'll make moves off of flakes and pockets. One of the pockets up in there is a good mono - while you are on good feet. I'd peg this around 11d/12a, it could feel either way.
Location
Protection
8-9 bolts to Clip-n-lower anchors. There is a perma draw on the fifth bolt, left of the Corner Drug line which protects the traverse into the top of Public Enemy (the left of the two lines). On the lower you may clip the climbers end back into the permadraw to help clean the first draws and keep from swinging left.
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