Type: | TR, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | Rui Ferreira, Dave Turner 11/10/07 |
Page Views: | 731 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Rui Ferreira on Nov 11, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
The climb has two distinct sections with the lower face being about 5.7 with the most difficult moves coming at the shallow, left-facing corner at the end of the starting ramp. The upper section of the climb is the obvious dihedral, which starts in the slab directly above Monodoigt. Climb through bulging rock on some fun crystals and pockets to get established at the base of the dihedral. A combination of stemming and layback moves gets you to a rest position on the left arete half way up the dihedral. From here, layback the left arete, or stem across when possible to the right arete to reach the top. There are two spots of 9+, 10- climb in the dihedral section. Some of the rock in the upper dihedral is still friable and will clean up with traffic. We did minimal cleaning.
Location
The route starts about 15ft to the right and around the corner from Thinner on the WSW side of the Finger. The climbing begins on a narrow, left-to-right, rising ramp and continues upwards following the most obvious line aiming for the upper, overhanging dihedral. (A variation is to start on Monodoigt and continue into the upper dihedral).
To get down, break down the toprope anchor and rap off Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit.
To get down, break down the toprope anchor and rap off Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit.
Protection
To set up the top rope anchor use the rappel station on Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit. (This can be backed up with some Camalots #2-#3 and use your own webbing besides the slings already there). Run about 15ft of webbing to the pinnacle edge (W) and use some additional webbing to loop the pinnacle to position the top rope. A blue Alien or a nut can be used as a directional near the pinnacle (SW side of ridge). The first half of the climb can be led on trad gear; the upper dihedral lacks any gear placements.
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