This is the line we initially had our eye on when we climbed what we called "Weather Or Not", but instead, I just had to climb that OW corner first... The 3rd pitch took some cleaning and was still a bit grungy when it was free'd but it should clean up fairly well - that's the reason I only gave the line 2 stars. The pitches above are great, and the exposure is even better - with nice crack climbing and some cool knobs on the face that come at just the right time.
P-1 & 2 Same as for "Weather Or Not"
P-3 Climb up and left over some flakes (sling for pro) and into a long crack/corner (hand sized cam deep in flake, or # 5 camelot). This crack varies in size and quality and requires a lot of different techniques. Belay on the high ledge just below the roof on the right wall, or split it into two pitches. 5.10A (A is for awkward) 190'
P-4 This pitch starts the headwall cracks. Pull the small roof on some long moves past gear and a bolt, via handrail/seam to a thin crack. Climb the crack and face with cool knobs past plenty of small wires and small cams to a belay out right on a small ledge (#2-#4 camelots). 5.11b/c 60'
Note: Could be combined into the following pitch but that is not recommended. If you do, make certain your follower is solid at the crux roof start, as they will be well out of sight about 200' below.
P-5 Move back left to the crack/flake and climb past a couple of small but hollow features (one is mandatory to stand on) and into easier ground. Continue up seams and cracks to obvious ledge and belay. This is a really nice pitch that we regretfully did not clean the loose flake (low on pitch) from because we were in onsight mode. 5.10 140'
Note: We also did a variation finish out right of the P-5 belay that climbs past a bolt (10+) and into a corner leading to the end of the headwall pitch of "Weather Or Not" and the 3 nut rap anchor.
P-6 Climb the easy crack and face to the anchor at the end of "Weather Or Not". 5.6 180'
Starts on first 2 pitches of Weather or Not. Four pitch variation to the left that climbs another set of cool headwall cracks.
Standard rack plus extra small to med stoppers, and a #5 and possibly #6 camelot.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 6, 2012
Hell yeah! NC just annexed Warbonnet I heard? :) Great work, quickly seeing how a high camp below Warbonnet would be a worthy base for a trip all its own next year!