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Drop, Fly, or Die 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Henry Barber, 4/77
Page Views: 5,501
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Kyle Story at the end of Pitch 1

Description 

Though this route is NOT blessed with an inspirational name, it DOES offer some of the finest crack climbing on the cliff: Just don't let the sand run out of your hourglass!

A few things distinguish this route from several other routes of similar grade on the cliff--A series of hard/insecure moves off the deck to gain the rest alcove, a deceivingly pumpy traverse crux, and an endurance crux with solid jams.

The route starts off of a spike of rock that sits in front of a few, large boulders stacked on top of one another. Place two pieces of gear, then boulder up from the spike and into the alcove below the roof. Rest.

Place a Blue Camalot out left, then master the leftward traverse without pumping yourself out too much. Gain a nice rest below the overhanging hand crack. Drop your arms into fifth and fire the enduro crack to the chain anchors.

It is possible to climb directly up to the main handcrack from the ground. This variation adds a few letter grades to difficulty of the route.

Location 

In the center of the cliff is a large stack of boulders with a small island of trees behind it. Start the route below the stacked boulders on a spike of rock.

Protection 

A nice size rack from the very small up to a #3 Camalot with doubles in the #.75 to #2 size. As always, wires are helpful.


Photos of Drop, Fly, or Die Slideshow Add Photo
This climb is proof the northeast is not lacking in phenominal crack climbing.
This climb is proof the northeast is not lacking i...
chris vultaggio on drop fly or die
chris vultaggio on drop fly or die

Comments on Drop, Fly, or Die Add Comment
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By CCliffe
Aug 4, 2011

there was a fist size bees nest under the last hold before you get into the alcove. dont get stung like i did
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Really amazing line - had to hang in the final hand jam section since the pump factor kicked in. Will come back to redpoint again soon...
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Sep 12, 2014

So so sick. I found the hardest individual moves closest to the deck, the traverse didn't feel bad.

With a 70m, link the pitches like Barber did on the FA! Or at least belay your second up and give pitch 2 a go...it adds another 30-40 ft of fun climbing at 5.10. In its current state it is rough, rugged and raw with a hard to read crux off the belay, much lichen/moss and just a touch of choss to keep things interesting.

You can rap off the top with a 70 to the ground, probably could lower off with one but I'm not sure.
By Jeff Moss
From: Albany, NY
Oct 12, 2014

If you link the two pitches, you can lower off the 2nd pitch bolts with a 70 safely.