|The Spider's Web
Though this route is NOT blessed with an inspirational name, it DOES offer some of the finest crack climbing on the cliff: Just don't let the sand run out of your hourglass!
A few things distinguish this route from several other routes of similar grade on the cliff--A series of hard/insecure moves off the deck to gain the rest alcove, a deceivingly pumpy traverse crux, and an endurance crux with solid jams.
The route starts off of a spike of rock that sits in front of a few, large boulders stacked on top of one another. Place two pieces of gear, then boulder up from the spike and into the alcove below the roof. Rest.
Place a Blue Camalot out left, then master the leftward traverse without pumping yourself out too much. Gain a nice rest below the overhanging hand crack. Drop your arms into fifth and fire the enduro crack to the chain anchors.
It is possible to climb directly up to the main handcrack from the ground. This variation adds a few letter grades to difficulty of the route.
In the center of the cliff is a large stack of boulders with a small island of trees behind it. Start the route below the stacked boulders on a spike of rock.
A nice size rack from the very small up to a #3 Camalot with doubles in the #.75 to #2 size. As always, wires are helpful.
This climb is proof the northeast is not lacking i...
chris vultaggio on drop fly or die
Aug 4, 2011
there was a fist size bees nest under the last hold before you get into the alcove. dont get stung like i did
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Really amazing line - had to hang in the final hand jam section since the pump factor kicked in. Will come back to redpoint again soon...