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This proud peak in the Central Wasatch is often hiked/summitted via the west or east ridges which are pleasant summer scrambles or fairly arduous ski mountaineering objectives. On the "snow ramp", which slashes through the NW Face at about mid height, we found a fixed 6mm rope. This was probably left over by Andrew McLean during one of his bold winter ski descents. We found no signs of any other previous climbers/visitors on the NW Face. The rock quality was better than expected, but typical for the tops or summit ridges of most Wasatch mountains, loose rock may be abundant in places and rubble heaps await the climber as one tops out.
Broads Fork is the most obvious approach. About 3 hours to the base of the route. Tanners Gulch from the south may be the quickest access, depending on conditions. Spring conditions seem to facilitate access from both options.
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The Central Spur 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Easy Snow UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dromedary Peak
I had long peered at this alpine face and I had wondered if a quality Wasatch Alpine route could be yielded. We actually expected more moderate rock climbing grades yet we found 5.9-5.10 cruxes on almost every pitch. These are fairly well protected. We chose the aesthetic Central Spur because the rock appeared better and the climber is quite protected from falling rock and ice (spring and winter conditions). We were greeted by very dry rock in a wonderful alpine cirque. As the lichen and loose r...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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