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Driving Limitations 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson and Mike Humphrey, April 1989
Page Views: 1,731
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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My daughter Tori, age 23, on one of her first clim...

Description 

A very popular but average route up the plated face right off the road. The rating is accurate if you climb directly past the first bolt otherwise it's a bit easier.

Decent climbing on this but the rock is suspect throughout and the constant buzz of traffic detracts from the overall experience. One star out of five.

Location 

Left side of the narrow south face.

Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8").


Photos of Driving Limitations Slideshow Add Photo
Jodi Levine, "Driving Limitations"
Jodi Levine, "Driving Limitations"
Sharon Vinick contemplating the move past the seco...
Sharon Vinick contemplating the move past the seco...
Cheryl on her lead
Cheryl on her lead
It was cold, thanksgiving weekend 2003, but this r...
It was cold, thanksgiving weekend 2003, but this r...

Comments on Driving Limitations Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 4, 2002

The exit sequence can be protected with a sling around a largish chickenhead towards the top of the route. It's not great, but better than nothing if you're not thrilled about the runout.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 10, 2003

C'mon Chris! I'd call this one of the better of the few "sport climbs" in the area, for the grade anyway. I'll have to check out El Chivo next time for comparison.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 10, 2003

Decent climb for the grade placed right in the center of it all. If you don't mind the "Look Mommy, Mountain climbers!" (They never seem to get it right without explanation)it's worth a shot. I certainly suggest doing it on weekdays. But then I suggest all climbs on weekdays don't I?
By Brian Reynolds
Dec 16, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The only way this is a 5.8 is if you climb straight up through the first bolt, in which case I thought it was a rather stiff 5.8. A lot of parties that I see climb it go around scramble up 3rd/4th class ramps to where they can clip the second bolt and move up from there. If you go that way, it's 5.6, 5.7 tops. It's still a good little climb, though.
By jacob
Jan 29, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not a bad route, I found it very easy.... but it was hard for some other people that i met up with.

if your in the area might as well go for it after.. el chivo
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a decent sport climb in Joshua Tree, where sport climbs are at a minimum. I felt like this was more of a 5.7.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Not a bad route....the start on passing the 1st bolt is a bit contrived. If one starts on the left side (by Red Beckey) and heads straight to the bolt (leaving the top block on the right off) its pretty stiff for 5.8. But if one uses the block for the right foot, it seems more like 5.7 as one passes the first bolt. After that, its an OK climb. The runout is nothing since the holds are big and quite frequent. Skip the big knob and do it!
By attila
Jan 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The run-out section at the top is easy for the confident and experienced, but probably not a good route for a new leader.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Direct start without kicking back behind you or taking the ramp is somewhat committing, bumping it to the "+" on the rating IMO.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jul 1, 2011

Anchors on top of this were replaced. The old chains were removed and brand new stainless rap-rings were installed courtesy of the ASCA. Part of on going project to improve the asthetics and safety of the bolts in the Indian Cove area.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Nov 11, 2012

If you are calling this route 5.8 I say it is contrived. The natural line goes up good and easy holds making this a Jtree 5.5 .... except easier than Right On. Which I guess makes Right On harder than 5.5 or this easier than 5.5.

Go figure!

It should be bolted for the 5.5 leader and left at that!
By Dave Kos
Feb 25, 2013

I agree with Justin - "contrived" is the word for the start of this route. Climbing directly past the first bolt is *much* harder than 5.8 and a fall at this crux would possibly result in hitting the ledge below. Moving to the right is easier, but then you have to really go out of your way to not to climb on the large flake/ledge that is right there. Use the flake to get past the hard part and it is probably about 5.5 (although you'll feel like you are off route.)

Get past the confusing start and the rest is fun, but easy and runout.