The route meanders in a shallow dihedral cut by ledges and delivers great climbing with balancy moves. There are no huge run-outs on this climb but rock quality and pro aren't great at spots where a fall could be rough - hence the R rating. The route starts from the top of triangular talus block and has three "cruxes" intersected with easier but delicate traverses and climbing on good holds. The low crux (5.10R) is the start of the route with no pro for 20 feet. The other two cruxes (5.11) higher up take decent pro but getting to them can be exciting.
The route is located roughly 25 yards north from Superior Crack. Walk along the cliff and locate a notch above a shallow dihedral with a triangle-shaped block at the bottom. The top anchors can be set up from slings around trees.
Small to medium nuts, small TCU's, Aliens, or C3's. Lowe Balls are very useful. Single medium cams up to BD #4. Double ropes and plenty of 24 and 48 inch slings.
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2007
Nice work Kris!
|By Travis Hibbard|
Nov 12, 2007
Yeah well done, you guys sure have been busy putting up routes at Palisade, way to go!
|By Kris Gorny|
Nov 24, 2007
Thanks, wish we could climb there more often. Awesome place.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 9, 2009
take 50ft webbing for rap/tr anchor (use on the medium sized pine tree). take 20-30ft webbing for medium sized cam placement east and a bit north of this tree.