|Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
This is described in the guidebook as perhaps the best route at Clark Canyon. It is a beautiful, long pitch of steep climbing on great rock.
Climb the bolted, right-facing dihedral before heading out right on to the face after the fifth (?) bolt. Climb the face to a small roof, passing it on the right, to a long, ever-steepening arete to the anchor.
Be careful lowering/rappelling off. A 70-meter rope will lower you to the first bolt of the route, from where you can downclimb to the ground. Those with less than a 70-meter rope, can use two ropes to get down or two lowers via a two-bolt anchor in the dihedral above the start.
Starts in the bolted, right-facing dihedral around the arete from Brain Tissue and Stoned Wheat Thin.
17 bolts and anchor.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
May 13, 2012
A must do route at Clarks, it was the highest quality of my trip there. A wide skill set is needed as the climbing demands jams to overhung sport climbing.
There is a bit of loose stuff down low in the dihedral which is a bit surprising since three climbs start here. I don't think a little grainy stuff detracts from the overall route though.
I'm glad I came back just to do this one in the morning before I left!
|By Kristoffer Schmarr|
From: 2nd Cornfield
Jun 7, 2013
AMAZING! Best route of my visit!
Alternative descent is to belay up your second, top out the climb, walk back into the chimney, boulder out, and scramble/hike down (the portion of the 'walkoff' that navigates the summit is nearly technical and a bit heady). I didn't see any two bolt anchor in the dihedral (But maybe I didn't look close enough).
Jul 16, 2013
Fun route! I think the 'two bolt anchor in the dihedral' refers to the anchor on the left side of the small overhanging roof. As described here, the route goes to the right side of the roof.
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 29, 2013
A single 70m rope will not get you safely off this route. It requires some shenanigans clipping in at the first bolt and down climbing. An 80m rope would be better for top-roping.