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Drilldo 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 4, 2008
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Description 

A steep and technical route that shares the easy start of Blues for Mowgli. But heads up and right above the gully through some steep climbing and on to a technical vertical finish. Careful not to blow a clip and deck in to the gully.

Climb past the 2 bolts on the slab and on to the nice ledge. Clip as many bolts as you can before getting on to the climb by heading up the gully. Come back to the steep start of the climb and work out a few hard roofs on small crimps before pulling up on to the final headwall. A crimpy technical face will get you to the chains above.

I found i had to use every inch of my long reach for the last move. Would be a bit harder if you are under 6 feet tall.

This route is not nearly the quality of its neighbor to the left Blues for Mowgli so if you only have time for one you know what to do.


Location 

The far left buttress at Triple Corners. Start on the slab with 2 bolts on it and stick to the right hand bolt line once on the ledge.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains with fixed biners.

Care should be taken while clipping as the gully looms below and you could deck if you blow a clip.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 13, 2011

Has anybody climbed this thing lately? When I put it up, I remember it being fairly fun climbing, but slightly nerve wracking. With the slab angling up close underneath you, make sure you are feeling secure before pulling any rope up to make clips. This one might be a good one to aid up and work a little on TR before going for the redpoint so the clips are secure. I remember a bit of a deadpoint near the top.

My dentist friend came up with the name.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2011

I got on it a couple years ago and couldn't make sense of it for the life of me... i saw lots of broken looking rock and assumed it had broken and gotten much harder... does it seem like that might be?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 14, 2011

I cleaned off a lot of loose flakes, so you may have seen scars from that. I remember it having some reachy moves (prob not for you) and thin moves on the upper face, more technical power down low.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 14, 2011

nice, ill have to take another look one of these days...

By sthomas
Nov 13, 2011

Got on this thing today. Really fun with a wide range of climbing in its relatively short length. FIguring out the upper slab took quite a bit of exploring but there are just enough holds up there for it to go.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 8, 2013

got back on today and managed to figure it out :) im just happy to understand it, ill lead it one of these days...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 29, 2013

Sent it yesterday. it climbed much better than i had expected... not a bad route...