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Drill for Developing Crag in Cambria
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Mar 11, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Land owner turned flakey. Don't go up there till I can get solid permission. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points
Mar 12, 2013
Is this the crag off 46 on the left side? Chris Blanchard
Joined May 8, 2010
293 points
Mar 12, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Nah I wish. This one's in Cambria, on the hillside above the high school. It's in the slater guidebook so check that out, or just google earth Scott Rock. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points
Mar 13, 2013
I've seen people bolt with a nice dewalt .. Do you really need a Bosch? Chris Blanchard
Joined May 8, 2010
293 points
Mar 13, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Oh definitely not, I just meant any chordless rotary drill. Dewalt would be ideal too. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points
Mar 13, 2013
I don't have a drill, but I'm in Cambria and can help out. Corey Ricketts
Joined Feb 12, 2013
0 points
Mar 14, 2013
To be perfectly honest .. I don't understand why these big rotary drills are needed. Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick? They used to use hand drills. I haven't bolted much on my own, but never understood why the Bosch rotary was the go to. Chris Blanchard
Joined May 8, 2010
293 points
Administrator
Mar 14, 2013
Chris Blanchard wrote:
Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick?

Try one and you will see. They work for soft sandstone, but that is about it. If you try to drill a hole with an underpowered drill in hard rock you are going to mess up the symmetry of the hole which, in some cases, could compromise the placement if you are using expansion bolts. I learned this a long time ago when I used a standard hammer drill (not a rotary hammer drill) to drill basalt and pull test some bolts and they ended up pulling out prematurely.

You do not need to use a Bosch-branded drill, but you should be using a rotary hammer drill and not a cordless drill.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
726 points
Mar 14, 2013
Chris Blanchard wrote:
To be perfectly honest .. I don't understand why these big rotary drills are needed. Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick? They used to use hand drills. I haven't bolted much on my own, but never understood why the Bosch rotary was the go to.


A standard hammer drill uses an offset chuck feature to create the hammering action (basically the bit wobbles as it spins)- thus creating a hole that is both bigger than the bit and not perfectly circular. A rotary hammer drill, on the other hand, uses a hammering action that comes from directly behind the bit, creating near perfect hole in decent to excellent rock (in really bad rock, even a rotary hammer will expand the hole pretty good).

Rotary hammers are the only viable drill for drilling good holes for bolts in rock. Unfortunately, cordless rotary hammers are expensive.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Mar 14, 2013
meow
hand drill... you'll appreciate the routes a whole lot more. Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 18, 2011
259 points
Mar 14, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
My friend actually offered to hand drill the route but he doesn't really know what he's doing. Besides I think it would be way too difficult to safety sport bolt the route with a hand drill as the rock is very hard dactite/granite, if anyone has a rotary drill around here I could turn this previously unclimbed face into a fun new safe sport crag! So let me know. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points
Mar 14, 2013
Well I learned a lot and that explains a lot. Coming from the southeast the rock is really soft. No drill here - sorry guys. Not yet anyway. Chris Blanchard
Joined May 8, 2010
293 points
Mar 15, 2013
At the matching crux
You may want to contact the Safe Climbing Association. They do more bolting/rebolting work in the USA than pretty much any other person/group out there.

I would be willing to bet they know someone in your area who A) has a drill and B) would be willing to mentor you whippersnappers and teach you the finer points of developing and bolting a crag. It's certainly worth an e-mail.

safeclimbing.org/
Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
98 points
Mar 15, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Thanks for the suggestion! Ill check that out. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points
Administrator
Mar 18, 2013
I've hand drilled quartzite many times. Alot harder than any Granite I've drilled. If you can afford the right bolts, you can afford a hand drill. Do a practice hole, it's all you'll need to figure it out. Yeah, it's laborious but so what. So you only get one or two routes up a day, big deal. It'll give you more time to TR the other lines and suss out the details of exactly where you want the bolts ...AND... you'll be more thoughtful about how many as well as were you decide to drill.

You don't need to get the whole thing done overnight. Savor the experience ;)
Salamanizer
From Vacaville Ca.
Joined Sep 1, 2005
2,609 points
Mar 18, 2013
Stabby
My buddies and I hand drilled our first sport route, in 1987. Then went and bought drills and have never looked back at that idiocy again. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Administrator
Mar 19, 2013
Drilling a 1/2" x 3" hole in hard rock with a hand drill could easily take 45 min per hole. F that!!! 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
726 points
Mar 19, 2013
Stabby
Just go and buy a drill. It's a very valuable tool to have aside from route bolting. You could even sell it when done for close to the new price, making the difference kind of like renting it. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Mar 19, 2013
John Wilder wrote:
A standard hammer drill uses an offset chuck feature to create the hammering action (basically the bit wobbles as it spins)- thus creating a hole that is both bigger than the bit and not perfectly circular.


My Makita (cam-action) doesn't do this...
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 19, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave
Get in touch with John Knight on here. He can probably help you out. He was always helpful and funny when I'd run into him climbing at Bishop Peak.

Also, I've TR'd a couple of routes there. Hike climber's right around and up the hill and you can access the top. From here, there are plenty of trees to sling up there. Really cool that the property owner is letting you develop it.
William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Joined Sep 22, 2011
9 points
Apr 7, 2013
Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Land owner turned flakey. Don't go up there till I can get solid permission. CCChanceR
From Ouray, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2012
25 points


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