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Drill for Developing Crag in Cambria
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By CCChanceR
Mar 11, 2013

Land owner turned flakey. Don't go up there till I can get solid permission.


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By Chris Blanchard
Mar 12, 2013

Is this the crag off 46 on the left side?


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By CCChanceR
Mar 12, 2013

Nah I wish. This one's in Cambria, on the hillside above the high school. It's in the slater guidebook so check that out, or just google earth Scott Rock.


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By Chris Blanchard
Mar 13, 2013

I've seen people bolt with a nice dewalt .. Do you really need a Bosch?


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By CCChanceR
Mar 13, 2013

Oh definitely not, I just meant any chordless rotary drill. Dewalt would be ideal too.


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By Corey Ricketts
Mar 13, 2013

I don't have a drill, but I'm in Cambria and can help out.


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By Chris Blanchard
Mar 14, 2013

To be perfectly honest .. I don't understand why these big rotary drills are needed. Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick? They used to use hand drills. I haven't bolted much on my own, but never understood why the Bosch rotary was the go to.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Mar 14, 2013

Chris Blanchard wrote:
Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick?

Try one and you will see. They work for soft sandstone, but that is about it. If you try to drill a hole with an underpowered drill in hard rock you are going to mess up the symmetry of the hole which, in some cases, could compromise the placement if you are using expansion bolts. I learned this a long time ago when I used a standard hammer drill (not a rotary hammer drill) to drill basalt and pull test some bolts and they ended up pulling out prematurely.

You do not need to use a Bosch-branded drill, but you should be using a rotary hammer drill and not a cordless drill.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 14, 2013

Chris Blanchard wrote:
To be perfectly honest .. I don't understand why these big rotary drills are needed. Why can't a nice cordless drill like a powerful dewalt do the trick? They used to use hand drills. I haven't bolted much on my own, but never understood why the Bosch rotary was the go to.


A standard hammer drill uses an offset chuck feature to create the hammering action (basically the bit wobbles as it spins)- thus creating a hole that is both bigger than the bit and not perfectly circular. A rotary hammer drill, on the other hand, uses a hammering action that comes from directly behind the bit, creating near perfect hole in decent to excellent rock (in really bad rock, even a rotary hammer will expand the hole pretty good).

Rotary hammers are the only viable drill for drilling good holes for bolts in rock. Unfortunately, cordless rotary hammers are expensive.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Mar 14, 2013
meow

hand drill... you'll appreciate the routes a whole lot more.


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By CCChanceR
Mar 14, 2013

My friend actually offered to hand drill the route but he doesn't really know what he's doing. Besides I think it would be way too difficult to safety sport bolt the route with a hand drill as the rock is very hard dactite/granite, if anyone has a rotary drill around here I could turn this previously unclimbed face into a fun new safe sport crag! So let me know.


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By Chris Blanchard
Mar 14, 2013

Well I learned a lot and that explains a lot. Coming from the southeast the rock is really soft. No drill here - sorry guys. Not yet anyway.


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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Mar 15, 2013
At the matching crux

You may want to contact the Safe Climbing Association. They do more bolting/rebolting work in the USA than pretty much any other person/group out there.

I would be willing to bet they know someone in your area who A) has a drill and B) would be willing to mentor you whippersnappers and teach you the finer points of developing and bolting a crag. It's certainly worth an e-mail.

www.safeclimbing.org/


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By CCChanceR
Mar 15, 2013

Thanks for the suggestion! Ill check that out.


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Mar 18, 2013

I've hand drilled quartzite many times. Alot harder than any Granite I've drilled. If you can afford the right bolts, you can afford a hand drill. Do a practice hole, it's all you'll need to figure it out. Yeah, it's laborious but so what. So you only get one or two routes up a day, big deal. It'll give you more time to TR the other lines and suss out the details of exactly where you want the bolts ...AND... you'll be more thoughtful about how many as well as were you decide to drill.

You don't need to get the whole thing done overnight. Savor the experience ;)


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Mar 18, 2013
Stabby

My buddies and I hand drilled our first sport route, in 1987. Then went and bought drills and have never looked back at that idiocy again.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Mar 19, 2013

Drilling a 1/2" x 3" hole in hard rock with a hand drill could easily take 45 min per hole. F that!!!


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Mar 19, 2013
Stabby

Just go and buy a drill. It's a very valuable tool to have aside from route bolting. You could even sell it when done for close to the new price, making the difference kind of like renting it.


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Mar 19, 2013

John Wilder wrote:
A standard hammer drill uses an offset chuck feature to create the hammering action (basically the bit wobbles as it spins)- thus creating a hole that is both bigger than the bit and not perfectly circular.


My Makita (cam-action) doesn't do this...


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By William Domhart
From Ventucky, CA
Mar 19, 2013
Traverse by HWY 41 Cave

Get in touch with John Knight on here. He can probably help you out. He was always helpful and funny when I'd run into him climbing at Bishop Peak.

Also, I've TR'd a couple of routes there. Hike climber's right around and up the hill and you can access the top. From here, there are plenty of trees to sling up there. Really cool that the property owner is letting you develop it.


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By CCChanceR
Apr 7, 2013

Land owner turned flakey. Don't go up there till I can get solid permission.


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