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Routes in Haystack
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Blood Money T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Escape to Alcatraz S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jump on Diss T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Ziggy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mystery Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Student of the Future T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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These Colors Don’t Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Greg Collins 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,041 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Carson on Aug 6, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
The most obvious natural route on the south face, well towards the west end of the rock. A discontinuous crack rises from the base to a bolted belay at about 120 feet. There are several cruxes, the first right off the deck. One can rappel from the belay anchors, or do a second pitch with a few tricky moves directly above the belay, leading to easier ground and the 'summit'. Descend/scramble westwards to get off.
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