|The Red Wall
This is a cool campus-style route. Scramble up the gully to the right of the red wall. Look at the rock for a ledge - a big tree grows out of the ledge about 15 feet off the deck. You will get horrible feet and good positive handholds at the overhanging crux. Burl on through if you can.
This is a fine line on the far right edge of the Red Wall.
As you look at the Red Wall, you see an obvious upper tier and lower tier. The upper tier actually breaks into a left and right panel, with most of the routes over on the left panel. These routes are accessed by doing one of the lower tier pitches.
The right panel has three routes which can be accessed via a short scramble. Scramble up the gully to the right of the red wall. Look at the rock for a ledge - a big tree grows out of the ledge about 15 feet off the deck. This ledge is where the routes start. Scramble up here. Dressed to Drill is the rightmost route.
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
I generally hesitate to award such a short route with 4 stars, but the climbing on this thing is exceptional. There are a couple minor blemishes, the main one being a spooky flake/ledge on the lower section; however, the superb climbing and perfect bolt locations make this a great route. This would be a really good intro to 12b at Devil's Head. Neat belay ledge, nice view, really cool rock. Add this one to your list!