Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Bockmattli
|
|
Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Jenelana 7a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
Namenslose Kante 5a T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Supertramp 6c+ T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rolf Kälin, Michi Gysin 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,122 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Jul 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
P1 6b+ - A rough warmup. Crux after 3rd bolt, traversing right. Then some steep moves over a bulge. 40 m.
P2 6b - Run out and steep with some tricky moves. Good fun! 30 m.
P3 6c - Clip the 1st bolt, then go down and traverse low. Spectactular climbing on the best rock on the route, with intricate moves. Moves right to the arete towards the top. #2 cam useful here. Payback for the good climbing: crappy hanging belay at the end. 30 m.
P4 6a - A monster pitch, and not a gimme for the rating. With 60m ropes, you can pass a 2-bolt rap station, keep going to belay station in the alcove (with a metal bucket). 50 m.
P5 6a+ - Traverse left around the corner, and head up. 30m.
P6 5c - Icing on the cake. Stemming corner, easily protectable with medium and large cams. Maybe one bolt on the pitch. 30m.
5 rappels with 60 m ropes, tricky at the end: either rap down to the path at the bottom (best with daylight and good conditions to find the rap station) or downclimb the loose scramble approach.
P2 6b - Run out and steep with some tricky moves. Good fun! 30 m.
P3 6c - Clip the 1st bolt, then go down and traverse low. Spectactular climbing on the best rock on the route, with intricate moves. Moves right to the arete towards the top. #2 cam useful here. Payback for the good climbing: crappy hanging belay at the end. 30 m.
P4 6a - A monster pitch, and not a gimme for the rating. With 60m ropes, you can pass a 2-bolt rap station, keep going to belay station in the alcove (with a metal bucket). 50 m.
P5 6a+ - Traverse left around the corner, and head up. 30m.
P6 5c - Icing on the cake. Stemming corner, easily protectable with medium and large cams. Maybe one bolt on the pitch. 30m.
5 rappels with 60 m ropes, tricky at the end: either rap down to the path at the bottom (best with daylight and good conditions to find the rap station) or downclimb the loose scramble approach.
Location
Western edge of the north face of Bockmattli. The path from the hut along the base of the cliff will join a barbed wire fence. Hop over at a large downed tree and scamble up the loose, muddy hill. At the rock, head left for ~100m of easy but loose 5th class, with several bolts. We simulclimbed on 30m of rope.
0 Comments