Dreamscape

Pitch 1: Climb the left facing dihedral for about 35 meters till you reach a good size ledge and a couple of cracks to build an anchor. There is no definitive crux and the over all feel of the pitch is about 5.4.

Pitch 2: From here head straight up to a small roof that looks intimidating but it is 5.7. Good pro at the base of the roof. There is a small tree on the far right and a bush on the left, climb up next to the bush staying right of it as you pull the roof with stemming and decent holds (see picture with the rope showing the way). Follow the crack till it peters out as the slab turns into a ledge where you find the bolted belay that is the middle rap anchor and is a shared anchor with Scanners.

Pitch 3: The rock quality degrades a little on this pitch as happens in Unaweep sometimes. The gear is much more cryptic and the route meanders a little. There are multiple options but the easiest line I've found goes up right to the small tree from the anchor, I sling the tree and there is a place for a smaller piece of gear, I want to say .3. From here I move up to a crack directly above but I don't climb the crack i stay on the small ledges to the left and use the crack for pro and sometimes hands. Gear here goes 1,1,3 BD and the first 1 is tricky but it goes in. After placing the #3 I head left a little more staying well below the tree till I'm on the ledge the tree is growing out of. I sling the tree as I head left of it and sling the next tree as I move left around and then on top of it. This puts you in an alcove and I move to the right and place a .5 or .75 BD in a mostly horizontal diagonal crack on the right wall just below the bush. I put a double shoulder sling for rope run and I climb just to the left of the bush humping the rock a few times. From here stay to the right and do some more rock humping while pulling on jugs with tricky gear but a lot of options. There is a bolted belay and the beginning of the rappel. Doing it exactly this way feels about 5.6 but there are a lot of harder options along the way. The anchor is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, and it's a 5.0- scramble to the top from here. Supper easy moves but if you slip it could be disaster, there is a large tree to sling if you prefer to lead it.

Pitch 3 is worth doing but a newer trad leader might struggle to find the best placements. I wrote this more detailed description in response to some feed back from beginners that the pitch is run out. If you are new to leading trad maybe skip this pitch and come back to it after you feel more comfortable with route finding and placing gear. I feel the first two pitches of both of these routes are great for beginners and this is my go to for bring someone for their first multi pitch. The last pitch is trickier and is a good opportunity to challenge your skills, it has a lot of fun easy movement and is well worth doing. Gear sizes are approximate (my memory really isn't that good) but 1,1,3,tree,tree should be accurate in the beginning to middle of the pitch.

This route lies on the slab 10-15 feet to the right of the rappel for the routes on Upper Mothers in the gully that separates Middle and Upper Mothers.

To reach it, hike the main trail from the parking lot up to Upper Mothers then head up the gully. The route starts in the first left-facing corner to the right of the chimney that has some huge tat slung chockstones for the decent.

There is a bolted rappel that can be done in 3 raps with a single 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes. The rappel starts at the top of the third pitch.

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.