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 ADVANCED
Middle Mother's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyer's Rib T,S 
Centurion T,S 
Connotation T,S 
Coxswain T,S 
Days of Wine and Roses T 
Denotation T,S 
Denouement T,S 
Dirty Harry T 
Double Reach Around, The T,S 
Dreamscape T 
Drive-by Diking T,S 
First Impressions T 
Flora Dora T 
Free Falling T 
Iron Maiden T,S 
Jagged Edge T 
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 
No Name 1 T 
No Name 2 S 
No Name 3 T 
No Name 4 T,S 
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 
On Golden Pond T 
Rise of the Phoenix T 
Scanners T 
Wandering Charm T,S 

Dreamscape 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 345'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randall Chapman, Robert Rowsam, Fritz Nuffer
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Rschap on Jun 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: First pitch and the old descent.

Description 

Pitch 1: 5.4 climbing up a corner with good pro and fun movement. The pitch ends on a big ledge 35 meters up. There is no bolted anchor for this belay but plenty of options for building one.

Pitch 2: Climb up the small, blocky, 5.7 overhang with good pro. We used the left crack next to a bush to pull the overhang. Finish on a big ledge about 35 meters up. There is a bolted belay that is the middle rap anchor and is shared with Scanners.

Pitch 3: There are multiple options to a big tree and the end of the climb. Pro is a little trickier on this pitch. There is a bolted belay at the beginning of the rappel. This is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, but it's a class 3 scramble to the top from there.


Location 

This route lies on the slab 10-15 feet to the right of the rappel for the routes on Upper Mothers in the gully that separates Middle and Upper Mothers.

To reach it, hike the main trail from the parking lot up to Upper Mothers then head up the gully. The route starts in the first left-facing corner to the right of the chimney that has some huge tat slung chockstones for the decent.

There is a bolted rappel that can be done in 3 raps with a single 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes. The rappel starts at the top of the third pitch.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.



Photos of Dreamscape Slideshow Add Photo
Start of P1.
BETA PHOTO: Start of P1.
Randall and Robert topping out.
Randall and Robert topping out.
Start of P2. Stay left when passing the roof to maintain the 5.7 grade.
Start of P2. Stay left when passing the roof to ma...
Dubious terrain pro on P3.
Dubious terrain pro on P3.
Randall on P2.
Randall on P2.
The climber is sitting at the belay on top of the first pitch, and the rope shows the way to go on the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The climber is sitting at the belay on top of the ...
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