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BETA PHOTO: First pitch and the old descent.
Pitch 1: 5.4 climbing up a corner with good pro and fun movement. The pitch ends on a big ledge 35 meters up. There is no bolted anchor for this belay but plenty of options for building one.
Pitch 2: Climb up the small, blocky, 5.7 overhang with good pro. We used the left crack next to a bush to pull the overhang. Finish on a big ledge about 35 meters up. There is a bolted belay that is the middle rap anchor and is shared with Scanners.
Pitch 3: There are multiple options to a big tree and the end of the climb. Pro is a little trickier on this pitch. There is a bolted belay at the beginning of the rappel. This is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, but it's a class 3 scramble to the top from there.
This route lies on the slab 10-15 feet to the right of the rappel for the routes on Upper Mothers in the gully that separates Middle and Upper Mothers.
To reach it, hike the main trail from the parking lot up to Upper Mothers then head up the gully. The route starts in the first left-facing corner to the right of the chimney that has some huge tat slung chockstones for the decent.
There is a bolted rappel that can be done in 3 raps with a single 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes. The rappel starts at the top of the third pitch.
Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.
Randall and Robert topping out.
Start of P2. Stay left when passing the roof to ma...
Dubious terrain pro on P3.
BETA PHOTO: The climber is sitting at the belay on top of the ...
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Apr 23, 2015
Once this gets cleaned up, it will be nice.