Dreams 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Russell Sagon |
| Submitted By: | EL WRAY on Feb 6, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: The thin crack is left of the green line. Pro plac...
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Description great layback crack climb. fingers to very thin fingers. crux is at end of the crack where you move right onto the face well above small gear.
Location starts just right of orange streak on left side of wall at obvious left facing corner.
Protection small cams. bring #1 bd with 2ft sling for top. shares ring anchors with Jeep Streak
By Joey Wolfe
Feb 7, 2008
| This is a really cool climb with interesting movement. I have only toproped it, but it would make for a really heady lead. After you climb the thin holds in the back left corner of a round bulge dihedral like feature, you have to change style and bust up the slightly over hanging face like the OP said, well above small gear. In my opinion this may deserve an R or at least an S. |
By s f
From: GA/CO
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.11-
| Solid PG13 due to some tricky moves, subtle gear, and the proximity to the ground. |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Took a nice gear ripper on this yesterday when I slapped for a nothing hold instead of a monster jug after the crux. |
By JohnWesely
From: Athens, GA
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Some idiot put a bolt at the crux on this thing. What a waste of a cool route. I don't have the tools, but hopefully someone can chop it. |
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