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Dreamin' 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl, Feb. '88
Page Views: 8,168
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 30, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Sauntering up the steep slab on impeccable tuff be...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This classic sport climb on the east face of the Prophet Wall ascends welded tuff on a steep face, slab, and over two roofs. The hardest move, before the initial roof, felt like 11d although two other 11 cruxes are encountered making the overall rating 12a. As A. Watts suggests, a 2' runner is helpful at the penultimate bolt under the final roof to prevent rope drag. Brilliant Climb!!


Protection 

Quickdraws are all you need for pro. A fixed rappel anchor is at the top.



Photos of Dreamin' Slideshow Add Photo
About to start the slab. Amazing photo by Shay Skinner
About to start the slab. Amazing photo by Shay Ski...
Nearing the end of the brilliant slab. <br />
Nearing the end of the brilliant slab.
Starting the excellent slab section.
Starting the excellent slab section.
Pullin the roof, there's a mondo jug up there, just keep feeling for it...or use a horrific crimp and whip off like I did...
Pullin the roof, there's a mondo jug up there, jus...
Too good to be true, must be Dreamin'
Too good to be true, must be Dreamin'
3rd bolt on the slab.
3rd bolt on the slab.
First Roof
First Roof
Surmounting the low roof on Dreamin'.
Surmounting the low roof on Dreamin'.
Comments on Dreamin' Add Comment
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 2, 2006

Some sporty runnouts on this one send some running but the falls are all clean.

By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Nov 20, 2006

PG13 Perhaps. If this route wasn't so dam scary to us low 12 climbers, it would see heaps of traffic. Either way, great movement on excellent rock, and superior position.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 1, 2010

On the subject of clean or not so clean falls, the fall from the moves just before the second bolt above the first roof (5th bolt?) is totally a potential ankle-breaker. The bolt is poorly placed and is a couple of feet off to the right, resulting in a very exciting and/or painful ride.

By slopdog
Jun 20, 2012

This route will leave you day dreaming after you blow the on site just under the last roof. Such a beautiful and eye catching route for lower 12. AWESOME and RECOMMENDED

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Mar 12, 2013

I second what Palo said back in 06...This would get constant traffic if it wasnt so scary to 11+ and 12- climbers!! Falling between the 4th and 5th bolt could result in an ugly fall, and a fall going to the 2nd bolt on the slab could be an ankle breaker. Still, an unbelievable climb and well worth being a little scared.