Dream Weaver 5.11a
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Description Every goes very smoothly till you get to the ledge. Once at the ledge you can either go left up the arete or head straight up. I feel that the climb was originally intended to go straight up but I wasn't able to figure out the moves. If you go left towards the arete. I feel that you knock the climb down a letter grade and a number grade to a 10a/b. The crux this way is very pumpy and a fall could result in a dangerous swing into the ledge.
Location Follow the Jack Williams trail till you come to a stack of rocks. Take a hard left and follow the deer trail till you get to the Cliff
Protection 9 quick draws.
By Kris Hanson
From: Freeport, ME
Sep 10, 2008
| I believe that the FA of this route was done by Peter Beal in 1993 or 94. He also developed some climbs to the left of the upper section. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 11, 2008
| Hi Kris! John Weaver bolted and climbed this route in 1992-93. I always thought the lower arete was the sketchiest part. Fun route though and nice picture. Have these routes all been rebolted? |
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Nov 9, 2008
| Hi peter! Most of the ramparts has been re-bolted. Ben Townsend and Alan Reese put in the stuff to 11a and I rebolted all of the harder stuff that you and Weaver did back in the day. Tilted arch still goes on gear w/ 1 bolt above the lip where I broke off the good hold last spring. Now a throw to a crimper ;). The project to left of dream WEAVER is going back in in the spring. Also 2-3 more proj. going in in the area, but they are HARD. Cheers and thanks for the climbs.PS. Renascence 12c? Old school, i like it. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 9, 2008
| Thanks for the news regarding rebolting the Camden area routes. The name Tilted Arc refers to a sculpture by Richard Serra that was ultimately taken down by its patron, the U.S. General Services Administration, an unwittingly prophetic name, I guess
I'd be psyched to hear about other developments. The project left of Dream Weaver was supposed to have been done already but I never was able to confirm it. It should be in the 13d/14a range. Too bad it seeps a lot. |
By john weaver
Mar 26, 2009
| dream weaver is 10+, and fa was weaver. |
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Mar 27, 2009
| Can we call it 10c in the new guide? Any disputes? Weaver? Great. 10c it is ;). |
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 9, 2009
| I was (and still might be) helping Ben with photo topos for the new guide, I have a rough draft of the guide and the route still goes at 11a in the new edition. But I agree with a rating of 10c. Also, what new lines were you gonna put up? I'd be very interested to check them out. Thanks. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 11, 2009
| Not 10c in my opinion but I don't mind either way. |
By john weaver
Apr 14, 2009
| no it was intended to stay on the arete the intire way from bottom to top! bolts out right off ledge because of the hollow rock on the arete. |
By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Sep 13, 2009
| I think .10c is appropriate. |
By epoch
From: Maine
Sep 14, 2009
| I agree with the concensus of .10c. It is a bit harder (.10d?) if you follow the bolt line on the second half of the route.
Is there any information about the crack - that seems to always be wet - on the left of Dream Weaver? |
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Oct 31, 2009
| The Crack on the left is called "dense mossworks," I've been told it was 11a, but its much easier in my mind. Bit dirty, but a few enjoyable moves. |
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