Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Rampart
Select Route:
Arete S 
Ariel S 
Caliban S 
Dream Weaver S,TR 
Over the hill S 
Prospero S 
reconnaissance S 
Renascence S 
renasonance S 
Resonance S 
Sassy or sally aka sos S 
second april S 
Tense Mossworks T 
Tilted Arc T 
wingspan S 

Dream Weaver 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Beal 93/94
Page Views: 1,233
Submitted By: Brandon Melanson on Sep 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Photo of Josh.

Description 

Every goes very smoothly till you get to the ledge. Once at the ledge you can either go left up the arete or head straight up. I feel that the climb was originally intended to go straight up but I wasn't able to figure out the moves. If you go left towards the arete. I feel that you knock the climb down a letter grade and a number grade to a 10a/b. The crux this way is very pumpy and a fall could result in a dangerous swing into the ledge.

Location 

Follow the Jack Williams trail till you come to a stack of rocks. Take a hard left and follow the deer trail till you get to the Cliff

Protection 

9 quick draws.


Photos of Dream Weaver Slideshow Add Photo
Me rapping off
Me rapping off

Comments on Dream Weaver Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By Kris Hanson
From: Freeport, ME
Sep 10, 2008

I believe that the FA of this route was done by Peter Beal in 1993 or 94. He also developed some climbs to the left of the upper section.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 11, 2008

Hi Kris! John Weaver bolted and climbed this route in 1992-93. I always thought the lower arete was the sketchiest part. Fun route though and nice picture. Have these routes all been rebolted?
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Nov 9, 2008

Hi peter! Most of the ramparts has been re-bolted. Ben Townsend and Alan Reese put in the stuff to 11a and I rebolted all of the harder stuff that you and Weaver did back in the day. Tilted arch still goes on gear w/ 1 bolt above the lip where I broke off the good hold last spring. Now a throw to a crimper ;). The project to left of dream WEAVER is going back in in the spring. Also 2-3 more proj. going in in the area, but they are HARD. Cheers and thanks for the climbs.PS. Renascence 12c? Old school, i like it.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 9, 2008

Thanks for the news regarding rebolting the Camden area routes. The name Tilted Arc refers to a sculpture by Richard Serra that was ultimately taken down by its patron, the U.S. General Services Administration, an unwittingly prophetic name, I guess

I'd be psyched to hear about other developments. The project left of Dream Weaver was supposed to have been done already but I never was able to confirm it. It should be in the 13d/14a range. Too bad it seeps a lot.
By john weaver
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

dream weaver is 10+, and fa was weaver.
By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Mar 27, 2009

Can we call it 10c in the new guide? Any disputes? Weaver? Great. 10c it is ;).
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 9, 2009

I was (and still might be) helping Ben with photo topos for the new guide, I have a rough draft of the guide and the route still goes at 11a in the new edition. But I agree with a rating of 10c. Also, what new lines were you gonna put up? I'd be very interested to check them out. Thanks.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 11, 2009

Not 10c in my opinion but I don't mind either way.
By john weaver
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

no it was intended to stay on the arete the intire way from bottom to top! bolts out right off ledge because of the hollow rock on the arete.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 13, 2009

I think .10c is appropriate.
By epoch
From: Maine
Sep 14, 2009

I agree with the concensus of .10c. It is a bit harder (.10d?) if you follow the bolt line on the second half of the route.

Is there any information about the crack - that seems to always be wet - on the left of Dream Weaver?
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Oct 31, 2009

The Crack on the left is called "dense mossworks," I've been told it was 11a, but its much easier in my mind. Bit dirty, but a few enjoyable moves.
By Russell Johnson
From: Waterville ME
Aug 21, 2014

The crack that starts to the left of Dream Weaver (called Dense Mossworks according to previous poster) has recently been cleaned up. It now makes for a nice trad lead at maybe 5.9+. The crack ends at the ledge before the Dream Weaver crux, so the logical finish would be to continue to the DW anchors.