On the north face, just uphill from the low point of the rock are two right-facing crack/flakes - this is the right one that leads into a right-arching seam with 3 fixed pins. A #4 Camalot is nice for the initial crack. The climbing past the pins requires great trust in one's footwear and a bit of trust in the upward driven pins! Screamers are recommended for clipping these, as a pulled pin could change the situation for the leader. Supplement with RPs, and belay when the difficulties end. It could be an "s" pitch, depending on the state of the pins. The second pitch is stellar 5.10 crack climbing with great position. Continue to the summit on the East Ridge.
RPs to #4 Camalot, screamers.
|By Stefan Griebel|
May 19, 2004
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
This is a fine route. 2 of the 4 pins can be backed up with excellent small alien placements. If you have just 1 screamer, save it for the last pin (around the corner of the ramp). From there it feels a little spicy until you get to easier ground 10' higher. You may be able to fiddle around with some small nuts here, but they would be tricky and balancy to place. The ramp and crux section are very licheny and appear to have seen almost no traffic. The overhanging 5.10 finger crack is stellar and pumpy!
The 5.11 lower section and 5.10 upper crack can be easily combined in 1 pitch using some longer runners to reduce rope drag. To do this, bring 2x Blue Alien - #1 Camalot, 1x #2 - #3.5 Camalot, a few small to medium nuts and/or triples of green - red Alien size. Doing this in one pitch felt harder than South Crack - the crux is more technical and insecure, and the top is steep and just as pumpy. Both climbs are awesome "Flatirons 5.11".
|By jack roberts|
Sep 11, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I did this route today (Sept. 11, 2004) with Bob Rotart and we thought the route was excellent. We took a hammer and reseated all four pitons so they should be good for a while yet. All pitons can be backed-up with tiny Aliens (blue or purple) and HBs. but when you do this you eliminate slots for your tips. A large #4 or 4.5 Camalot would be handy for the initial wide crack section. The last pitch takes middle-large nuts and #1-#2 Friends well. Great position and climbing. We rapped from just above the belay after the 5.10 section on the last pitch.