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Oceanic Wall
Routes Sorted
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Challenges of Leisure S 
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 
Deep, The S 
Dream Come True S 
Dream On S 
Dreamed Up 
In Your Dreams S 
Leviathan S 
Mud Shark S 
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 
Pound Town S 
Poundcakes T 
Sargasso Sea S 
Shiek Yer Bouti S 
Shiny Toys T,S 
Twistin' By The Pool T 

Dream On 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin.
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall, and climbs 30 feet of easy terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left as for Leviathon for ~15 feet before breaking right again and climbing a right-leaning lieback feature. Shares an anchor with Leviathon.

Protection 

Fully bolted. You can lower from the anchor with a 50m rope.


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By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

FYI: the trip up to the two bolt anchor shared by Dream On and Leviathan is 10a, so it makes for a nice short lead if you, like me, don't warm up on the 11s. That is, if you can get on it. Notoriously crowded, unless you make a mid December visit and climb near the frozen creek. Not recommended.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 6, 2002
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The second to last clip is admittedly difficult, and it took me for a fall, but I don't think this pitch is really on-par with the 11c/d grade. Maybe I'd call it 11b?
By Joe Collins
Jul 1, 2002

Not that fun of a route, but 11b??? I don't know about that...I haven't had to hang (and twice at that) on a mid-5.11 sport climb in years. If Sargasso Sea and Mud Shark are 12a, then this route is more like 12a/b.
By Lon Black
Jun 6, 2005

Of the three upper pitches above the initial 10a pitch, this one is the easiest for me. It is by no means easy, but relative to the one to the left and the one to the right, it is a touch easier. The left pitch has a crux that seems a little harder than this one, and the right route feels at least a grade harder.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
May 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

After a decent rest, the crux sequence is very sustained: 5.11 holds but feels like 5.12 while maneuvering to get yourself into the correct position to make the holds work right. Nevertheless, it is a great place to practice taking some whippers. The first bolt you need to clip as you establish in the seam is very difficult to clip but the one below it makes it too far to skip to fall safely if you blow it.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 11, 2008

I seem to remember the 2nd bolt was located at a strange stance that required a lot of foot friction. Also there was a possibility of a grounder if you blow it w/ slack in your mitts! Focus hard, and ignore the little voices...Young Doug.