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Lemonhead Rock
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Dreams of Cali T 

Dreams of Cali 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Abe Smith, Brandon Lemon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: AbeS on Feb 18, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Route line in Red

Description 

From the up hill side of the rock climb the first 10' to a large shelf. Move to the right and place a cam in the 2" crack below Lemon's lip then climb over the lip or place a stopper and sling as an aider to pass over the lip, the crux of the climb. There is a nice 1" crack to the right after you crest the lip. Use it to place pro or another aider to get your feet on the rock. Once standing on the lip there is a bolt to the left or a few nice cracks to place bomber pro. The route goes up and slightly to the left to a small flat, once here there are a few small parallel cracks for cams before going straight up to top out.

Location 

Once you find the rock, start from the up hill side. To get down use the bolts or put a sling on the horn on the opposite side of the rock.

Protection 

Standard rack- cams up to BD size #3, nuts and hex's. Once on top across the rock on the down hill side there is a horn that can be used to set up an anchor for belay and a few smaller trees.
There is a bolt set at the top to rappel down.


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