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Dreadlocks 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford
Season: West facing wall
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: bheller on May 29, 2012
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 


This interesting and neglected route packs a technical and bouldery crux high on the slightly overhanging wall. The line follows a broken crack system above Suicide Blonde. The crux is encountered right before clipping the 2nd to last bolt. I surmise it is sticking the "really cool pocket move" described in the Ruckman's AF guidbook. It seems clear to me that holds have broken in this crux area, and the route is now considerably harder than the Ruckman guidebook indicates. Still a worthy outing.


Location 

The route climbs a jagged crack system up the slightly overhanging headwall above Suicide Blonde. The traditional start was to begin on Beeline and veer left, but starting on Suicide Blonde seems more direct to me. Its nice to have options.


Protection 

Bolts (11 total?) to open-shut anchors.



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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jun 3, 2012

Agreed it's hard for 12a. Not sure about c though, but maybe (hopefully). I've been calling it "super hard 12a" and agree that it's great and deserves more traffic. One of the best pitches in the area.