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(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 


YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: jerry roberts (1987)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 22, 2009
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Dave (left) about to hit the roof section of Dread...


start up slabby, ledgy rock at the base of the wide corner. Vegetation can be in varying degrees, problematic here (if no one has pruned recently). A beautiful 5.7 arete is to your right, the Whole Wheat/Fables corner-to-roof is to your left, angle your direction so you are moving up just left of the center of the face. Gear is sparse, aim for a thin arching crack that will provide some key placements. Delicate, steep climbing. Intimidating. Some well thought out gear placements are crucial to avoid a perilous fall. Boulder up to a bolt. Past it is the route crux perhaps, then into slightly slabbish, runout face moving into the final overhanging portion. Roof is steep and pumpy....juggy....and suuuuuper airy...there might be a fixed pin up here......boulder it out, up, and onto the slab headwall with final moves on sculpted holds and slots. Tall route. One of the best routes on this cliff. I always belay from the top. Walk off down the steep descent gully adjacent to the route's start. This is a serious route. It has a big route, T-Wall kinda feel to it. It is a full-value route, having a range of challenges. I would advise being solid on 5.10 and being especially solid on your creative use of trad gear. Sometimes the aformentioned arching thin crack that plays a crucial role in the protection scheme will seep, will be wet....complicating a feel-good ascent of this route


right of Fables, Modern Day Pirates, Flying Circus, and Tech Noir, which are all around the corner from Meathooks and Memory, Rock Wa, etc


standard Steele rack

as with most all Steele climbs, there are no fixed belay anchors. Please do not install fixed anchors. Bring appropriate resources and skills to lead, finish, and safely second these routes without undue imposition on the environment

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By sammy raviv
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

One of Steele's best routes!!! Definitely finish through the roof. Great position for a tan too.