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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Dreadlock Holiday 
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If You Can't Do It Glue It 
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Spreadlock Holiday 
Too High for Bry 
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Window Shopping 

Dreadlock Holiday 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Nov 19, 2008
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Description 

Pull the steep start on good holds to the second bolt. Here the first crux is encountered a hard pull off bad holds with bad feet to a sharp pocket. Continue up on easier ground to the mid-anchors, 11+ to here. Rest well and continue up to a cool traverse left to a pillar. Layback up the pillar and pull on top. With some creativity a no hands rest can be obtained on top of the pillar. From here pull the routes crux moves and head up to the anchors.

A variation continues up and slightly right from the mid anchors on 3? new bolts. This looks good and is around mid 5.12.

Great moves but less than stellar rock.


Location 

Middle of Fillet a Papillion Wall, between "Red Tag Sale" and "If you Can't do it Glue it". Second route right of the cave.


Protection 

8? Bolts to Anchors



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