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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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96 Degrees 
Almost Blue 
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 
Deputy, The 
Dreadlock Holiday 
Duran Duran 
Duran's Pharmacy 
Full Penetration 
Gank Move 
If You Can't Do It Glue It 
Inchworm Arete 
Insider Trading 
Little Caterpillar 
New Kids on the Block 
Red Tag Sale 
Sinister Dane 
Spreadlock Holiday 
Too High for Bry 
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe 
Unknown Lance Route 
Window Shopping 

Dreadlock Holiday 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Nov 19, 2008
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Pull the steep start on good holds to the second bolt. Here the first crux is encountered a hard pull off bad holds with bad feet to a sharp pocket. Continue up on easier ground to the mid-anchors, 11+ to here. Rest well and continue up to a cool traverse left to a pillar. Layback up the pillar and pull on top. With some creativity a no hands rest can be obtained on top of the pillar. From here pull the routes crux moves and head up to the anchors.

A variation continues up and slightly right from the mid anchors on 3? new bolts. This looks good and is around mid 5.12.

Great moves but less than stellar rock.


Middle of Fillet a Papillion Wall, between "Red Tag Sale" and "If you Can't do it Glue it". Second route right of the cave.


8? Bolts to Anchors

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