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J Crags
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Aguille Du Tangelo T 
Bottle Tester, The T 
Dread Naught T 
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 
Hunter, The T 
Rabbits Trod. T 
Silver Lining T 
Sunshine Slab. T 

Dread Naught 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 750', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ben Folsom, Paul Ross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: USBRIT on Feb 26, 2005

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Ben Folsom on the first pitch of Dread Naught

Description 

Approach from the Uneva Mine trail head. Starts below a 200' pillar on the right(north) side of the Sunshine Slab Formation. A good introduction to the slabs.

P1)Follow the groove crack system that angles right, then a slab to double anchors. 200' 5.7.
P2) Move left a few feet then more steeply to the top of the pillar. Continue to a flake below an open slab. 160' 5.7+
P3) Straight up east slab to double anchors .170'5.4
P4) A few thin moves left of belay to a shallow groove then a pleasent slab to double anchors. 200' 5.5.
P5) Scramble to a ledge then 4th class about 700' to the summit and register in a cairn.

Descent : Descend Sunshine slab... 4th class from the summit for several hundred feet to the southern edge of the slab and look out for double rap anchors when the slab becomes steep. Four raps to the groung. The last rap is from slings around a block.

Protection 

Camalots: from #0.3 to #3 Two 60 meter ropes


Photos of Dread Naught Slideshow Add Photo
Ben on pitch 2 Dread Naught
Ben on pitch 2 Dread Naught
Paul Ross on pitch 4
Paul Ross on pitch 4

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