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Burner Buttress
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Back Burner T 
Burner T 
Dread Locks T 
Fire Starter T 
Goldfinch Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dread Locks 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Doug Moffat 1977
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2010

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Lance, climbing Dread Locks near the end of the da...

Description 

A great overhanging crack system to the right of Death Flake. I think this is a great route, and would give it 3-4 stars except for a short section which required grabbing holds covered in guano. I guess I have been climbing on routes covered in Guano for over 20 years and it hasn't seemed to harm me yet... Go for it, a classic route.
Pitch one is great, for Pitch 2, climb directly up the face and exit on cracks to the left of the summit pinnacle.


Location 

Dread Locks is the next major crack system left (west) of The Burner crack, and the crack system right of Death Flake.


Protection 

I usually recommend the LCC rack... one set of stoppers, one set of cams from small to large.



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By mountainsense
Oct 3, 2010

guano=good

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 14, 2012

Climbed this thinking it was Burner. The graphics in the guidebook are a little vague for this section.

There's a large boulder right above the first large "flake" that's lose. I'll bet if you cranked on it hard enough, it would dislodge. Unfortunate as it has two great holds on it.