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The New River Wall
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Dragonslayer 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jason Baker (6/08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,024
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Jun 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short bouldery route starts on the right side of the wall. Fight through a crux sequence of small crimps and a fun sloper just after the first bolt, up to a crimp below the second bolt. Pull up and gain a jug to clip and chalk up. Another short boulder problem awaits getting to the 3rd bolt and a rest jug under the roof. (Be careful of a sizeable chunk underneath the roof with an "x" on it... I tried to pull it out, but it didn't budge, but still be aware...) Finally, fun and easy climbing takes you over the roof with a long reach, and then up left to the anchors.


Location 

This route is located on the Merlin formation, it's just to the right of Merlin. Follow the New River trail.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings.



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By jesse mascarenas
Jun 17, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Great Climb! V7 crux into easy 12ish climbing. Who bolted this amazing route???

By Jerad Friedrichs
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 29, 2008

Sweet route Jason. This route definitely needs to be done while its cool to get some friction. Got on the other day in the heat and sun and it was SO greasy.

By mlloyd
From: denver
Jul 16, 2012

13a? nice route jason, short but sweet.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 11, 2014

Either a hold broke or this rig is sandbagged, because the boulder problem is easily V7, which would make this route 13a - not 12d.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jul 20, 2014

Even though V7 is roughly 13a, it does not always translate directly. Due to the short nature of this route, it does not warrant a 13a. I felt the crux to be more V6ish anyway....

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 28, 2014

I guess I need some beta.