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This short bouldery route starts on the right side of the wall. Fight through a crux sequence of small crimps and a fun sloper just after the first bolt, up to a crimp below the second bolt. Pull up and gain a jug to clip and chalk up. Another short boulder problem awaits getting to the 3rd bolt and a rest jug under the roof. (Be careful of a sizeable chunk underneath the roof with an "x" on it... I tried to pull it out, but it didn't budge, but still be aware...) Finally, fun and easy climbing takes you over the roof with a long reach, and then up left to the anchors.
This route is located on the Merlin formation, it's just to the right of Merlin. Follow the New River trail.
4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings.
|By jesse mascarenas|
Jun 17, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
Great Climb! V7 crux into easy 12ish climbing. Who bolted this amazing route???
|By Jerad Friedrichs|
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 29, 2008
Sweet route Jason. This route definitely needs to be done while its cool to get some friction. Got on the other day in the heat and sun and it was SO greasy.
Jul 16, 2012
13a? nice route jason, short but sweet.