|Spiral Staircase area
This is just left of Tourette's on a right-facing wall. Start in the corner to a thin seam. Move up and left to a wide crack and back right under the overhanging daggers. Stem here and move out and left, up hollow and overhanging ice to a chain anchor on the left side of the ice. One could bail right on the ice of Tourette's. It is short but stout, the wall overhangs about 110-degrees, hence the radical icy 'teeth' above.
This is in the Staircase area, just left of Tourette's and on the west side of the prow that 8mm starts on.
10-16 cm screws, 3 bolts.
Brad "embracing" the FFA, Dragon's Breath.
BETA PHOTO: Dragon's Tongue. The slab and ice to the right is...
Looking straight up into the overhanging ice. Kil...
BETA PHOTO: Just below the third bolt on Dragon's Tongue.
|By Princess Mia|
Jan 31, 2012
rating: WI5+ M7 PG13
Good route with some mind boggling and fun moves. Much easier after knowing where to go (not so apparent in the beginning).
Spicy getting to the first clip, and then the next two bolts are spaced a bit far apart. I agree with PG13.
The ice is much harder than it looks, and by the time you get to ice fat enough to place a screw, well then you are pretty much at the anchor. So exciting finish.