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Spiral Staircase area
Routes Sorted
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801 S 
8mm T 
Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) T,S 
Dragon's Tongue T,S 
IMAPNISS 
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Tourette's T 
Unnamed S 

Dragon's Tongue 

WI5+ M7 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus: WI5+ M7 [details]
FA: Brad Grohusky, Rob Griz
New Route: Yes
Season: Jan-April
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010

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Pulling the final moves onto the short but steep i...

Description 

This is just left of Tourette's on a right-facing wall. Start in the corner to a thin seam. Move up and left to a wide crack and back right under the overhanging daggers. Stem here and move out and left, up hollow and overhanging ice to a chain anchor on the left side of the ice. One could bail right on the ice of Tourette's. It is short but stout, the wall overhangs about 110-degrees, hence the radical icy 'teeth' above.

Location 

This is in the Staircase area, just left of Tourette's and on the west side of the prow that 8mm starts on.

Protection 

10-16 cm screws, 3 bolts.


Photos of Dragon's Tongue Slideshow Add Photo
Brad "embracing" the FFA, Dragon's Breath.
Brad "embracing" the FFA, Dragon's Breat...
Dragon's Tongue.  The slab and ice to the right is Tourette's.
BETA PHOTO: Dragon's Tongue. The slab and ice to the right is...
Looking straight up into the overhanging ice.  Killer hand-holds behind the free-hanging daggers.
Looking straight up into the overhanging ice. Kil...
Just below the third bolt on Dragon's Tongue.
BETA PHOTO: Just below the third bolt on Dragon's Tongue.

Comments on Dragon's Tongue Add Comment
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By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jan 31, 2012
rating: WI5+ M7 PG13

Good route with some mind boggling and fun moves. Much easier after knowing where to go (not so apparent in the beginning).
Spicy getting to the first clip, and then the next two bolts are spaced a bit far apart. I agree with PG13.
The ice is much harder than it looks, and by the time you get to ice fat enough to place a screw, well then you are pretty much at the anchor. So exciting finish.