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Dragontail Peak
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Backbone Ridge T 
Dragons of Eden T 
Serpentine Ridge T 
Triple Couloirs 
West Route 

Dragons of Eden 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 2000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: McGown, Wallace 1988
Season: Spring and Summer
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Topo. Nobody climbs pitches 1-4 any more.

Description 

Dragons of Eden is a ~7 pitch direct start to the NE Buttress, which climbs through a series of very square-cut roofs, corners, and ledges to join the NEB roughly halfway up the route. It was established as an aid route in the late 1980s and freed by Jens Holsten and Sol Wertkin in 2009. The protection and climbing are both excellent. You can rappel with two ropes from the end of the independent climbing, or follow the much easier ridge to the summit. Expect sustaine 5.10 and 5.11 cracks with a short, thin 5.12- crux.

I wrote 12 pitches for the entire route. The DOE portion can be done in just 4 pitches, including a single ~65m pitch up the entire headwall. A more typical breakdown is for 6-7 independent pitches, then several more easier simul-pitches on the ridge.

Here is a link to the FFA: climbing.com/news/beautiful-ca...

Here is the old aid topo:

cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showf...

Note - nobody seems to do pitches 1-4 any more, as you can just walk around to the left. So P5 now = P1.

Location 

Dragontail's NE Buttress is a long ridgeline running down and left, as viewed from Colchuck Lake. This is well to the left of the Triple Couloirs. Dragons of eden climbs the steep white rock on the NNW-facing aspect of the ridge.

Protection 

A double rack to #2, single #3. One rope if going to the summit. 2 ropes if rappeling, on or just right of the route.


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