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Routes in Deadman's Buttress
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Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dark Passenger, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Program Director T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, Greg Murphy |
| Page Views: | 4,456 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Dragon's Lair is a very challenging 150' squeeze chimney. The start of the route is loose and chossy, but quickly turns into a classic and brutal splitter squeeze. The crux, besides endurance, is fitting through a difficult bulge. You'll know when you are at the crux when you can't get back out of it. Double rope rappel from 2 drilled baby angles.
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