Climb the obvious lime-green-lichen-covered arete. The guidebook says 5.9, which is a bit of a sandbag, but not a huge one. It could be a bit much if 5.9 is your limit, though. Pretty fun and aesthetic.
This is in EFR's guidebook in the Prison Camp/Jailhouse Rock area, on a formation called Dragon Tower. This is the first formation you see when you drop down into the canyon, and is adjacent to the short waterfalls and cool mermaid pools. During wet years, the base can be a fairly deep, froggy-filled pool. Use your better judgement if you find water at the base.
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
great climb, but be careful; the 10a/b part starts with the first move and lasts until about the second bolt so it's real easy to deck if you're on lead. you can make it a solid 9 by climbing around to the right on the arete and getting back on the route after the second bolt (which is what i did) if you're not comfortable leading 10s (which i'm not). the rest of the climb is pretty much sustained 9 moves, a little overhung until the top.
i'd actually give this one 3 stars if the whole thing was a 9.
From: missoula, mt
Nov 22, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
fun route, stay right for the good holds, say goodbye to your tips if you stay left
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 22, 2007
The unnamed, not-in-the-guidebook route to the right of Dragon's Back is a MIXED route, there's only two bolts if I remember correctly. Maybe about 5.8+?
Had to mention this because one time a guy who was seriously Elvis legging on the 5.6 down the stream wanted to get on this with just quickdraws. I managed to dissuade him.
Nov 21, 2008
Nice, fun route, but the belay area can be sketchy. One of the bolts on the anchored chains looked a little rusty for my taste. got me thinking about what it looks like internally in the rock....? well, it holds fine as I'm still alive, but hopefully someone who knows what they're doing can replace those someday.
|By Jay Oswald|
Dec 18, 2008
This was a nice route - if you aren't feeling too great about the anchors at the top its an easy walk off.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009
6 bolts with a few committing moves and pumpy too. Great route for the entrance to the area. First route or last route of the day, it's worth a ride up.
|By Sean Martinson|
Apr 29, 2010
Great climb.Pretty sustained.Def crux moves in beginning.
|By AZ Spray|
May 15, 2010
This isn't close to being a 5.10-. This is more like a 5.8+. Stop spraying! This isn't even sustained.
|By CALEB ANDERSON|
May 19, 2010
who is this menace with a keyboard....someone stop him before he sprays all over his keys.
|By dale polen|
From: arivaca, az
Dec 29, 2010
Great climb, Climb the face, which I did, and its a bit harder then if you chicken out and climb the arete. I really like the moves and it was sustained at the bottom and eases towards the top. Only if you stay on the face if you climb out right it is significantly easier. I loved it.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 23, 2011
My friend decked on this from about the second bolt, I was able to yank in some slack so he didn't hit too hard. He is fine but I would definitely advise being humble about your abilities before trying to lead it.
From: tucson, az
May 4, 2012
Fun route. Added Mussy hooks to this and anchors to the right. Over hanging face to the left is really fun. Big holds below where it is steep, then gets a bit cruxy on some smaller holds where it hits vertical. Rock a bit questionable, belayer beware.
|By soren tucker|
May 27, 2012
Pochay and Olsen did not bolt this climb. My father (Steve Tucker) and mother ( Melissa Tucker) bolted it in 96 as a warmup for hard climbs at jailhouse; while my mom was pregnant with me. Regardless, a great climb, despite the third bolt hanger being loose enough to spin.