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 ADVANCED
(3) Long Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of White Dragons T 
Cross T 
Dragonfly T 
Dragonslayer T 
Fear Only Fear Itself S 
Fireman's Ladder T 
Golden Gate Roof S 
Golden Gate Slab S 
Guava Banana T 
Heping S 
Inconceivable S 
Long Lane Dihedral T 
Plausible S 
Pocket Dihedral T 
Pocket Overhang S 
Rated G S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Renai S 
Rhino Dihedral S 
Sky Ladder S 
Skyhook S 
Upon A Painted Ocean T 
Virtues On A Street Sign S 
Xinyi S 
Zhongxiao S 

Dragonfly 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 21, 2011

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Description 

Start up at the emergency instructions sign, or to either side of it. Cruise the slab to the big grassy ledge. Continue straight up a stemmy corner on big holds, reach a platform, jam some more easy cracks with face holds and plentiful feet on an increasing angle, and top out on a small ledge just before the summit.

This route is ideal as a warm-up or for setting a top-rope on the 5.9 cracks to the left, or as an initiation route for the new trad leader. Place as much or as little gear as you want. Placements abound.

Location 

Approach for Long Lane. When looking directly straight on, the route is the obvious series of ledges and dihedrals punctuated by grassy outcroppings on the center/right side of the formation.

Protection 

Gear to 3". Two-bolt and webbing anchor.


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