Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route
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Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.
Hike from the Condor Gulch trailhead (across from the east side ranger station) and gain lots of elevation. Turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail after 1.7 miles. About a quarter mile after that you will see Dragonfly Dome on the right just off the trail. There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back.
Two quickdraws; brown/blue tricams for pockets; small to medium cams / nuts for initial pillar / crack if desired.
Bolted anchor up top with rings. Can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here.
|Photos of Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: 5-January-2011: first part of the route
5-January-2011: Me on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Rout...
jim and martha on the dragonfly
Rappelling down near the 5.9
|Comments on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route
From: So San Francisco
Jan 16, 2011
You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors.
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.
The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.
The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top.