Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960 |
| Season: | dry |
| Submitted By: | rhyang on Jan 12, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: 5-Jan-2011: Dragonfly Dome, from the trail
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Raptor Closures! MORE INFO >>>
Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html)
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.
Location Hike from the Condor Gulch trailhead (across from the east side ranger station) and gain lots of elevation. Turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail after 1.7 miles. About a quarter mile after that you will see Dragonfly Dome on the right just off the trail. There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back.
Protection Two quickdraws; brown/blue tricams for pockets; small to medium cams / nuts for initial pillar / crack if desired.
Bolted anchor up top with rings. Can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here.
BETA PHOTO: 5-January-2011: first part of the route
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5-January-2011: Me on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Rout...
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jim and martha on the dragonfly
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Rappelling down near the 5.9
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| Comments on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route |
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By beachplus4
From: So San Francisco
Jan 16, 2011
| You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors. |
By ElGreco
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 R
| Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.
The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.
The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top. |
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