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Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960
Season: dry
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: rhyang on Jan 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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jim and martha on the dragonfly
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  • Description 

    Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.


    Location 

    Hike from the Condor Gulch trailhead (across from the east side ranger station) and gain lots of elevation. Turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail after 1.7 miles. About a quarter mile after that you will see Dragonfly Dome on the right just off the trail. There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back.


    Protection 

    Two quickdraws; brown/blue tricams for pockets; small to medium cams / nuts for initial pillar / crack if desired.

    Bolted anchor up top with rings. Can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here.



    Photos of Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
    5-January-2011: first part of the route
    BETA PHOTO: 5-January-2011: first part of the route
    5-Jan-2011: Dragonfly Dome, from the trail
    BETA PHOTO: 5-Jan-2011: Dragonfly Dome, from the trail
    5-January-2011: Me on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route.  Pic by Marc Siddens
    5-January-2011: Me on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Rout...
    Rappelling  down near the 5.9
    Rappelling down near the 5.9
    Comments on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By beachplus4
    From: So San Francisco
    Jan 16, 2011

    You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors.

    By ElGreco
    Mar 29, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.

    The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.

    The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top.