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{10} Backdoor
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Dragon with Matches 
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Who Fooled Who? 

Dragon with Matches 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 4, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: beta photo

Description 

A great alternative to clipping all those bolts! Between Big Rock Falling and Harley Davidson, right in the middle of the Basement area, locate a sweet dihedral with a low roof. Start on the ledge that runs below all of the climbs here. Place a tiny cam (0 Metolius) behind the left-hand flake, then make a big pull to get up onto the face. Continue up til you're ducking below the roof. Good #2 here. Step left, then stem and jam up the crack. Mix up some crack and face climbing to a small overhang, continue through some easy moves on big holds until you can traverse right to the fat Petzl bolts. Optionally, continue to the top via Harley Davidson.


Location 

Right in the midst of all that sporty shenanigans


Protection 

Gear to 2"
Anchor bolts (2008)



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