Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2013 |
Page Views: | 1,327 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Dragon Slayer has fun slabs with chickenheads and plates leading to a crimpy crux followed by more heads and plates. Combining pitch one and two with a 60 meter rope works well.
Start behind a dead tree at the lowest point of rock on the east half of the face. The last pitch goes up the left side of the buttress high above.
P1) 5.6: climb to a bolt 15 feet above the ground then up to the roof. Climb the roof then up the gator skin slab above. Angle right past another bolt and up to the chains.
P2) 5.9: climb up and slightly right tying off chickenheads, then climb past two bolts to the anchor chains.
P3) 5.11-: continue up right past a bolt protected bulge (the crux for short people) then back left past another bolt to the left edge of the headwall. Continue up gator skin along the left edge of the headwall (the crux for most people) past three more bolts to the anchor chains.
Start behind a dead tree at the lowest point of rock on the east half of the face. The last pitch goes up the left side of the buttress high above.
P1) 5.6: climb to a bolt 15 feet above the ground then up to the roof. Climb the roof then up the gator skin slab above. Angle right past another bolt and up to the chains.
P2) 5.9: climb up and slightly right tying off chickenheads, then climb past two bolts to the anchor chains.
P3) 5.11-: continue up right past a bolt protected bulge (the crux for short people) then back left past another bolt to the left edge of the headwall. Continue up gator skin along the left edge of the headwall (the crux for most people) past three more bolts to the anchor chains.
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