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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Dragon
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Dragon Fly S 
Dragon Slayer S 

Dragon Slayer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 11, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Dragon Slayer. A crux traverse by the first bolt,...

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Description 

This is a beautiful route on the upper NW Face of the Third Tier of Avalon. This is the Wall of The Dragon and is around to the right from the second pitch of Ancient Light, though it cannot be accessed from Ancient Light unless you climb Blade.

Follow approach directions given in Wall of the Dragon.

Work up and left to clip the first bolt, then go straight left until it is possible to climb straight up to the second bolt.. Et cetera. This route is wholly worth the weird approach.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off.


Photos of Dragon Slayer Slideshow Add Photo
At the second bolt.
At the second bolt.
Clipping the 5th bolt.
Clipping the 5th bolt.

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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a great pitch; one of my favorites on Avalon. Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top.

We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp and scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed.

The crux is the traverse left past the first bolt; thin edges for the feet make it possible. Climb up and clip the second bolt and breathe a sigh of relief. Solid face moves past the second and third bolts, an unusual ramp by the fourth and fifth bolts, and an overhang at the top round out a great pitch of climbing.

The rock is still a little dirty but should clean up with more traffic. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to wire brush the route on the way down.

If you've climbed everything else on Avalon, make the trek up to the Wall of the Dragon and do this route!
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 20, 2007

You can access/climb this & Dragon Fly after climbing Mystery Tour or Mystery Ship. Not knowing what we were climbing, these almost seemed like extensions/2nd pitches of Mystery Tour/Ship.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can climb it straight on without really hard moves. The upper part shares moves with Blade (the difference is gear vs bolts). Fun climbing, but kinda felt odd climbing another route and clipping these bolts.