Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics
|Consensus: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Head|
|Page Views: ||4,515|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Apr 5, 2006|
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Mark? Setting up for the gaston to gaston crux, or...
|East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only|
Some areas require a guide.
Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out.
Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times.
Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.
crash pads and spotters, if you do the right finish you may want a few more pads as the landing zone then includes the rock shelf that everyone tends to sit on behind the problem.
Trying to avenge cratering off the heal hook, thos...
BETA PHOTO: Dragon Fly with the flake visible at the right.
Enzo heal hooking his way into the crux
Enzo campusing through the juggy rails in the midd...
Cutting feet, moving towards the finishing moves.
By Joe Collins
Nov 22, 2007
2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet.
By Jarred Cleerdin
Jun 11, 2010
As I pulled the top of this line it felt a little tweeky for the onsight maybe with diff beta its not so bad.
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Dec 27, 2010
Also used to be known as Dogmatics.
From: Denver, CO
May 9, 2012
really sweet line. I hope to get it next trip.