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 ADVANCED
West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Dragon Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 3, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Dragon Direct. Start in the gully about 30' uphil...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon.

I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World country. You park your car for a little while and when you come back the wheels are gone, the battery's gone, the spare tire and jack are gone, and the clothes you left in the back are gone. Oh, and the seats are gone too. The next thing you know, we'll have rigged elections.


Protection 

2 bolts to get started, gear to 2 inches thereafter. Gain a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off or continue up to the ramp beneath Wall of the Dragon.



Comments on Dragon Direct Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Several hard moves past the two bolts at the start. Seemed more like 9+ or 10a than 9. There's a decent stance at the two-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch; you can belay here, bring your partner up, and then easily move up to the tree on the ledge by the Wall of the Dragon.

We replaced the rappel anchor on this tree: two slings and rap rings. Hopefully, this anchor won't disappear!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The trad part up top is super-mellow (5.5?) and takes pretty good gear for a climb without a salient crack, per se. A good place to practice more advanced gear placements and runner work, I think.