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 ADVANCED
Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

Dracula 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Horan & Pat Horan, 1996
Page Views: 2,180
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jun 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Bob Horan on the 1st ascent of Dracula.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the slab leading up to the left side of the steep piece of rock described below on a fun 5.9 or 5.10- slab past 5 or so bolts. Follow 5 bolts up a scoop through the middle of the steepness, making fun technical moves, until you can make a long move to the right arete of the steep face (crux). Swing around the corner and follow easier climbing past 2 more bolts to the anchors.

Location 

Between Gyromancy and Specter is a steep piece of rock with three lines of bolts on it. Dracula climbs the middle of the three.

Protection 

12 QDs and something for the anchor.


Photos of Dracula Slideshow Add Photo
Sending! Crux move, it is not over until you latch the arÍte.
Sending! Crux move, it is not over until you latch...

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By David A. Turner
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
May 27, 2013

I really enjoyed this. My first 12b and totally safe and easy to work on.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

(Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!)

Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display.

Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no tweaky moves, so you don't need a warmup route. The first half is easy and slabby but still really nice climbing. You will want a 12" draw on the 2nd bolt on the headwall, otherwise the rope wants to grind over a fairly sharp edge as you traverse up and right. Also, don't be discouraged if you struggle on your first attempt. It would be a tricky onsight, but once you dial a couple things in, the climbing just comes together really nicely. The last couple bolts seemed like they were placed a bit higher than I wanted, but with some patience, it works out. Some of the bolts seemed kind of old. Not sure if it was the lack of washers that gave me that impression?

Anyway, do this route - it is pretty sweet.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2013

Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people!
By slim
Administrator
Sep 11, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nice!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 6, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.