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Purgatory
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Believer S 
Dracula '04 S 
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Dracula '04 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kenny Barker - 2005
Page Views: 1,703
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Moving into the good resting hold at the last clip...

Description 

Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors. If you blow it you can take a huge ride.

How often do you get to take a 50 foot fall on a 60 foot route?

Location 

This is the left most route on the main section of wall and starts up an off set seam that forms a small left facing corner.

Protection 

6 bolts and a bolted anchor.


Photos of Dracula '04 Slideshow Add Photo
Working through the technical start, photo by Adri...
Working through the technical start, photo by Adri...
Hitting the edge at the end of the technical start...
Hitting the edge at the end of the technical start...
Eddie Avallone on route, Rachel Melville on belay....
Eddie Avallone on route, Rachel Melville on belay....

Comments on Dracula '04 Add Comment
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By Blake Cash
Mar 10, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Brilliant Route. 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Even better part of this route is the hoards of people lining up to climb Paradise Lost and leaving me alone to climb it's much better more aesthetic neighbor. Best route I've been on in the Red.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 13, 2010

For me personally Paradise Lost is the better "looking" line (just something about arete's) but the movement on Dracula '04 was more interesting.
By Lorenzo de Amicis
Mar 28, 2012

FYI, a bolt was added to protect the top run out portion of the climb.