Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors. If you blow it you can take a huge ride.
How often do you get to take a 50 foot fall on a 60 foot route?
This is the left most route on the main section of wall and starts up an off set seam that forms a small left facing corner.
6 bolts and a bolted anchor.
Working through the technical start, photo by Adri...
Hitting the edge at the end of the technical start...
Eddie Avallone on route, Rachel Melville on belay....
|By Blake Cash|
Mar 10, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Brilliant Route. 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Even better part of this route is the hoards of people lining up to climb Paradise Lost and leaving me alone to climb it's much better more aesthetic neighbor. Best route I've been on in the Red.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 13, 2010
For me personally Paradise Lost is the better "looking" line (just something about arete's) but the movement on Dracula '04 was more interesting.
|By Lorenzo de Amicis|
Mar 28, 2012
FYI, a bolt was added to protect the top run out portion of the climb.