Dracula '04 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Kenny Barker - 2005 |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Oct 28, 2009 |
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Working through the technical start, photo by Adri...
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Description Very technical climbing to start up the offset seam, you really have to trust some bad feet and get the hand sequence right. The holds get much better at the mini roof and 3rd bolt. Move left to a flake feature then up and back right to a rest jug. Clip your last bolt and make a couple of long moves up to an obvious pocket, your foot is now at the bottom of your last draw. Start the upper crux by punching out to the arete and slapping your way up and around to jugs above and left of the anchors. If you blow it you can take a huge ride.
How often do you get to take a 50 foot fall on a 60 foot route?
Location This is the left most route on the main section of wall and starts up an off set seam that forms a small left facing corner.
Protection 6 bolts and a bolted anchor.
Hitting the edge at the end of the technical start...
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Moving into the good resting hold at the last clip...
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Eddie Avallone on route, Rachel Melville on belay....
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By Blake Cash
Mar 10, 2010
rating: 5.13b
| Brilliant Route. 5 stars on a 4 star scale. Even better part of this route is the hoards of people lining up to climb Paradise Lost and leaving me alone to climb it's much better more aesthetic neighbor. Best route I've been on in the Red. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 13, 2010
| For me personally Paradise Lost is the better "looking" line (just something about arete's) but the movement on Dracula '04 was more interesting. |
By Lorenzo de Amicis
Mar 28, 2012
| FYI, a bolt was added to protect the top run out portion of the climb. |
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