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Mount Grossvogel
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Berserk T 
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Dr. Suess Vogel T 
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Ranger Danger T 
Robaxol T 
Roboranger T 

Dr. Suess Vogel 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cathy Boyd, 4/86
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Dr. Suess Vogel

Description 

This route is sort of a pile and not really worth doing. I have no idea how it seemed good enough for listing in the "Trad Guide to Joshua Tree" as there are seriously way better routes of this grade in the park. This route starts on the left side of the northeast face of Grossvogel below an elephant ear flake.

P1) Climb up tricky ground below and right of the flake, then traverse left across the flake using the crack above. Continue in a slanting crack up and right to easy ground. Belay is a function of rope drag (you can split it up if there's too much), or you can run it all the way to the top.

P2) Continue to the top from where you belayed.

Descent: Scramble off down the slabs to the north. WARNING!!! The initial part of this descent is harder than the route you just came up! Place anchors and belay accordingly for safety!!!


Protection 

Standard rack.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 30, 2013
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2006

Not worth the trip over - uneventful. There are much more fun and aesthetic climbs in the park to do at the same grade elsewhere.

By Brian F
Oct 22, 2007

I disagree. Both Dr. Suess Vogel and Roboranger are good routes for the grade. They have interesting moves and are VERY good for beginning leaders. I think the reason they are in the Trad Guide to Joshua Tree is because their proximity to the Atlantis wall. (>15 min) Its a great circuit for a new leader to climb a couple on the Atlantis wall and then a couple on Mt. Gross...don't forget to climb the Aguille de Joshua Tree

The best part is I have NEVER seen anyone out there.

Either these climbs are pretty good or I'm crazy...we stood on top of a snowbank to climb these!! It drifts a lot of snow here in the winter.

By Kevin Craig
Nov 16, 2007

I agree with Brian. We climbed Classic Corner, False Classic Corner and this route in a fun outing. Led by my wife who is just breaking into the grade, it has good protection (except the traverse where it can be strenuous to place and a bit less than totally bomber). Bring small to medium gear and doubles in green/yellow Alien range may be welcome. The "scramble" off aka "downclimb" is a bit spicy at the start but still 4th class or 5.easy.

By Randy
Nov 17, 2007

A pile and not worth the hike. Lots (and lots and lots) of better routes of this grade in the Park. Shows the power of the Trad guide to direct people's objectives. Probably all the traffic has improved what was otherwise a route destined to remain an obscure chosspile.

By Kirk Barrett
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb!

By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think there's a few (like two or three) fun moves on this route - all early. Not a complete waste of time, but not sure its worth the walk out there. I mean, what's the deal with making the "60" guidebook? No way!
We did the route in one pitch with a 60m rope. Bring 24" slings - we did and rope drag was not an issue.
The walkdown kinda sucked, but then again, I'm kind of a wuss. We must have missed something, but there was a tricky section getting down - the rest was easy as pie.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Of the two 'Trad Guide' routes on this formation, this one is easily better than the other and has a couple of decent moves down low. That being said, it is not nearly one of the top 5.6's in the park. Why no love for Final Act or Curtain Call on Playhouse?! Or anything on Playhouse for that matter?

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

There are a few fun moves, and then some 4th class. Worth doing if you're in the area. This might be a nice first trad lead as there is good pro, and unlike many other JTree 5.6s, falling off at the crux (traverse) would be clean.

This can easily be done in one pitch. No need for rope drag, as once you finish the traverse it's 4th class all the way to the top of the formation, so just place a good piece for the traverse and extend the sling, and then no more pro is necessary (though there are places for pro if you want to practice).

I wouldn't hike out just for this route, but if you're in the area doing classic corner anyway it's worth tagging.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The traverse across the bulge is the crux. There are three variations to climb past the bulge. 1) Traverse left undercling 5.6+. May be strenuous to protect. 2) Traverse left half way up the bulge using finger crack 5.5. This is the variation shown in the 60 best easy trad climb book, but offers no protection and has potential 20+ fall. More scary than difficult. 3) climb out right with undercling, and smearing for feet. Offers best protection. 5.7-

After passing this section, the rest of climb is barely worth climbing. Descent is scarier than this climb.

You can also set up top rope anchor past the bulge and then climb the thin finger crack on far left side that forms a dihedral. This is the most difficult 5.8 and the best variation in my opinion, but can only be top roped, because it offers no pro.

By Dave Kos
Apr 9, 2012

Maybe worth doing as part of a day along with other routes in the area, but not worth the hike by itself. Not great for new trad leader because the 5th class moves are down low and a fall on a bad piece of gear could hit a nasty boulder at the bottom.

Easily done as one pitch as the 5th class climbing is over after about 25 feet or so.

The descent isn't *that* bad, although I wouldn't call it "2nd class" either. Look for a ledge about 3 feet down on the right side that may not be obvious at first.

By Alex Peterson
From: Kamas, Utah
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I took the option of going left with the undercling so I could enjoy the small roof. Rock is a bit grainy and there are some greasy spots, that made it interesting. Easy to protect and that was about all for the climb. Climbed in the middle of the summer early in the morning (0700). It sits in the sun at this hour. Under the boulder there is a tied off sling that is solid as a belay. If I had known what the rest of the route was like, I would have just rapped down from here.